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No start, no crank


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Hey everyone, I've got a truck I'm having some trouble with. 2010 cxu613, dash lights up but won't crank. Battery voltage good, relay good, all ignition relays/fuses checked good. Ecm is sending voltage to relay.

 

However I'm getting a mid 144 pid 200 fmi 9 in the VECU, ECU data "operation failed" truck sat for almost a year cuz of bad injector cups, were about to do a inspection and see if we wanna save it. I've cleaned all the ground on the starter and on the block by the pcv seperator.

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I've started chasing datalink/can bus wiring. With everything plugged in pin C reads 2.3 volts, pin D 1.9. When I unplug the engine ECU pin c voltage increases to 2.65v and pin d voltage remains constant. Resistance across can lines is 120ohms. Unplugging various can bus sensors doesn't change voltage at pin C or D, however in getting over 3v at all the sensor connections at the harness on can high wires. Unfortunately I don't have a diagram for the ecu pinout and I can't get into macks ESD right now.

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The engine ecm controls the ground for the small auxiliary starter solenoid that on the starter. The engine ecm has the final say on whether to start or not by completing the ground. Using a test ecm and if you can now see engine hours then most of the time you have a failed engine ecm. The test ecm could be from a automatic trans truck or be programmed totally different than the original so sometimes they won’t start. I have see a few times that the power and ground were weak to the engine ecm. It might show 12 volts and ground but under a load there is not enough voltage or ground to carry the load . 

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So I think there's a short to power somewhere, key on the starting solenoid + wire has 3.5v on - battery post. Ecm connector + pin to the lug hoop has 0 ohms no other harness connections have any continuity to the hoop. Whatever took out the engine ecu seems to have also killed the abs module, because that's throwing a 254 code now that the ecm is on the can. 

 

The new ecm is from another truck that's basically exactly the same, ordered for fleet use with consecutive vin#s

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The small chrome auxiliary starter solenoid/relay that’s bolted to starter is where the magic happens. The small red wire pretty much comes from the key switch and starter relay in the fuse box. The black wire goes back to the engine ecm. These two wires are in a loom together and come off the back of the engine harness and over the top of the transmission. Turn key off and let truck power down . The key on and then to start position. You have one 5 second shot to check the voltage on the red wire . Which should be 12volts. After 5 seconds the VECU kills the starter relay voltage. You have to cycle the key back off to re-test. 

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10 hours ago, Mackpro said:

The small chrome auxiliary starter solenoid/relay that’s bolted to starter is where the magic happens. The small red wire pretty much comes from the key switch and starter relay in the fuse box. The black wire goes back to the engine ecm. These two wires are in a loom together and come off the back of the engine harness and over the top of the transmission. Turn key off and let truck power down . The key on and then to start position. You have one 5 second shot to check the voltage on the red wire . Which should be 12volts. After 5 seconds the VECU kills the starter relay voltage. You have to cycle the key back off to re-test. 

Yeah, I've got constant 3.5v with key on on that red wire. I'll have to yank the doghouse to chase the wire any further.

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Your fuse box down by your clutch pedal, does it have a rubber boot that goes around it that sticks out a couple inches along the side? There was a recall on most all CXU, GU and CHU’s. Water was getting in the fuse box and shorting out relays.  https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2014/RCRIT-14V078-3643.pdf

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