Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I totaly agree with DCW.. its a bit of labor, but I know I can do that axle within a work day, (as long as the beam and boss' are good and dont need machining)..  do you have a shop and a 20Ton shop press? You dont have to pull the beam out as long as the eyes are good, which you will check with the new pin to observe fitment.  Yes, micrometers are important, but you can do it with the pin.

I’m just going off my R axle. It was a straight drive out/drive in on the bushings. A jack and a hammer knocked the tapered pins loose. Jack in a different place and a snack with the hammer seated the pins. Then set the thrust bearing. It was easier than doing an old pickup truck. 

But I don’t know if the B axle is the same. 

  • Like 1
  • Like 1

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

As long as none of the bushings are worn through and into the knuckles, it should be pretty easy then. 
hardest part of mine was lifting the brake drum off and on!

  • Like 1

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

Joey,my email:skydawg999@gmail.com,and thank you.DCW,are there any special tools required,other than that reamer? I`m a back yard guy,can jack it up,but don`t have a shop.I`d give it a shot if it`s something an average guy could handle.

I have used a flapper wheel on a die grinder to fit the pins,,  I got pretty good at it.  it doesnt take much buffing to fit the new style kits. 

lining the grease holes and seams are very important.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

I have used a flapper wheel on a die grinder to fit the pins,,  I got pretty good at it.  it doesnt take much buffing to fit the new style kits. 

lining the grease holes and seams are very important.

JoJo, the ones on my FA535 axle did not require anything done to the holes or the bushings.  Not sure if that has always been the case.  I can't remember for sure, but I think mine had a needle bearing on top and a bushing on the bottom.

Seems like freighttrain did a set in about 4 hours!  Mine took me all day!

  • Like 1

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

didn't see anyone state the  new pin bushings had to be reamed to fit the pins.( back then) ;;; am I really that old!! believe the HD  B81 /DM axles had the roller bearing under the kink pin  that sat in  adjustable cap held in by large cotter pin. oh the customers that didn't know the reaming process wasn't that accurate if reamed tooo much.  the grease was heavier then also took up some error in reaming. 

  • Like 1
On 8/17/2023 at 12:04 AM, skydawg said:

With either front tire jacked off the ground,I get about an inch and a half of movement when I grab the tire at the top and push and pull.This occurs equally w/ left and right tires.I`m guessing this isn`t good,even though the front end feels solid going down the road...no shimmying or wobbling up to 50 mph,which is as fast as I`ve gone,so far.This is a 1961 B61 w/ an FA505 axle.Can anyone help in diagnosing the problem? Thanks.

when in doubt, a second set of eyes and a good light helps.  one to move the wheel(s)  while another is behind tires to see what is moving; wheel bearings/kink pins.

  • Like 1
39 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

when in doubt, a second set of eyes and a good light helps.  one to move the wheel(s)  while another is behind tires to see what is moving; wheel bearings/kink pins.

That would be a wise investment, right there!

  • Thanks 1

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

years ago when the bushings were just plain brass we had to fit the pins. the newer (15+ years) kits came with a nylon lined bushing.  if they got a little dinged during install, I would champher them and or buff them for a smoother fit. kieser kits are like chinese hand cuffs, and with a slight twist they go right in and if the bore is good, when they set they are correct.  no hammers/drivers/ cussing or buffing needed..  

  • Like 2

seems every where you look plastic is replacing metal/ brass/ bronze.  just another sign of how times are changing.  was there a similar  spiral type bushing  made from metal (bronze/ brass ??  can picture a spiral brass bushing ; can't recall for what. maybe 3/16th wide wraps by 1 1/2- 2 in long ?

the keiser kits are steel..  those are the only type like that that I ever used.  I do not know of other metals being used..  Mech.  I still have the old reamer tools from 25 years ago.  they had interchangeable cutters..  with a square end for a 'T' handle.  no electricity needed..      Jojo

 

P.S. I also have a bunch of ''Flywheel housing Runout tools'' of course the engines I build have round dowels and dont really call for a runout adjustment, but I have checked runout just to be sure the housing is installed correctly.... 

  • Like 1

guess what threw me for a loop was the  part saying  "kits came with a nylon lined bushing" . I took it to mean plastic bushing :(been a long day of cutting wet grass).keiser kits are possibly what i was brain cell thinking then. I could almost have an upset stomach thinking back to all the tools and stuff I had before the auction.  reamers/ pullers/ (2) 1in impacts :: too long a list. and the tech stuff= micrometers , gauges and more.

kink pin reamers I used / had were specific to one pin only. came in long narrow WOODEN  box wrapped in an oily cloth.  square head for adjustable wrench usually. back in the day pins were like a cup of coffee== small/ medium/large. just sayin. 

  • Like 1

yeah thats what I have, no boxes, just different sizes with cutters that can be replaced, there is a threaded collar that holds the cutters in place..  If I remember, i will send you some pictures..  they are in rough shape now,  stored out in the open.  however, I do have a sand blast cabinet.  and may be able to tune some of them up, with out causing damage.. 

that's why I earlier stated = customers didn't always know how accurate the kink pin job came out. grease fixed a lot some times. tapered pins bushings that were installed then reamed from bottom =up. no fancy electronic gadgets ;; hold the reamer forcing upward and turn evenly.  didn't take much to over cut a bushing

  • Like 1

So AFTER I bought the 301SQ32B kingpins,I looked at the build sheet for my truck and the part# is 301SQA32C...did I just waste $300? I did have my brother help w/ the problem ID,and he said the kingpins are loose,also driver side tie rod end and drag link have too much play,He`s an excellent auto mechanic but not equipped or experienced w/ big trucks.He thought it looks like the drag link play might be taken up with a screw on the end.

Edited by skydawg

Sometimes those are different revisions of the same item. Might have to do some measuring to know for sure. 
Also the build sheet number might not be for the “kit”.

  • Like 1

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...