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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/27/2023 at 6:47 PM, JoeH said:

Which joint is "worn"? The forward one that mates to the pitman arm is adjustable, my dad just adjusted one of ours.

Interesting....is that a Mack thing or just specific to the CL series?   I have a couple R models that have a little slop there.  

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  • 1 month later...
5 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

You take out that cotter pin and the cap (that the pin goes through) screws in to take up slack, out to disassemble. Might have to disassemble and replace the ball if it is wore. The one pictured has the ball riveted onto the pitman arm so replacing would require some effort but can still be done. BTW, do NOT tear that rubber boot if you take it apart. I priced one out a couple years ago and IIRC they wanted $140CAD. That was a hard "NOPE" from me. I would make one out of leather first. 

Thank you!

So spin in the cap with a larger flathead/straight edge of some sort I would imagine?

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Glad someone chimed in with the "how to". I had no idea how.  I only know that my dad adjusted the link in one of our trucks not too long ago so I threw it out to you as a possibility! Reasonable that a 20k axle is not adjustable. The one my dad adjusted is rated for something in the 10.5-11k range.

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now I feel 🤣REAL OLD 😂. "my day "many drag links were adjustable , to the point I had two  3/4 drive  drag link sockets for adjusting purposes. basically a very large flat  screw driver head . a  piece of flat stock and adjustable was used MANY  times. for the froze adjuster the 3/4 dr socket came to play. not always just out of adjustment on the bad sloppy ones ; many times the HD spring inside the drag link breaks.

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12 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

now I feel 🤣REAL OLD 😂. "my day "many drag links were adjustable , to the point I had two  3/4 drive  drag link sockets for adjusting purposes. basically a very large flat  screw driver head . a  piece of flat stock and adjustable was used MANY  times. for the froze adjuster the 3/4 dr socket came to play. not always just out of adjustment on the bad sloppy ones ; many times the HD spring inside the drag link breaks.

I know how you feel, I have a drag link socket in my tool kit somewhere. However, the O/Per is working on a 1996 model, and I have never seen a adjustable link that late. even by 1969 they were not seen on most new equipment.  The British buses I worked on were the newest thing I saw with adjustable ends, and they were in the 70's vintage and older.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Depends, on type and which adjustment you are talking about. If you are adjusting for wear at the ball socket, then no. If you are adjusting for length then it depends on how the drag link is made. Some like my Marmon use a mini tie rod with left and right threaded ends, and that can be adjusted for length without removing an end, others like my IHC's and I think yours (hard to tell from the picture, but it looks to have only one thread) you have to remove one end to thread it in or out.

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2 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Depends, on type and which adjustment you are talking about. If you are adjusting for wear at the ball socket, then no. If you are adjusting for length then it depends on how the drag link is made. Some like my Marmon use a mini tie rod with left and right threaded ends, and that can be adjusted for length without removing an end, others like my IHC's and I think yours (hard to tell from the picture, but it looks to have only one thread) you have to remove one end to thread it in or out.

Ok thanks, ya im just trying to adjust for wear.  

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