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My mechanic tells me that most likely I will be needing a head and possible piston/valves for my trk.  It was inadvertently started with throttle wide open and now have a stuck exhaust valve on #4.  Engine model  # ENDTB 675

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Has the head been removed?  If he's a good E-6 2 Valve guy, then maybe you should listen to him..  When you can, post pictures of the head and any thing related to your question..  Welcome to the Dog Pound....   Jojo

I have an ENDT 673 in my shop..  These are the gasket kit numbers to do a head job and full rebuild.  I hope they are the same ones you need..   ''PAI''  is your friend on this one..  Jojo

9 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I think all parts, possibly including the head are still available 

Paul

Thats what I am hoping.  I can do most of the work that needs done on the truck except engine work, hench why the head hasn't been pulled as of yet.  Don't really want to have it towed to a shop and have them tear it apart only to tell me parts are no longer available.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/16/2023 at 10:33 AM, JoeH said:

Probably just a bent pushrod from valve float.

I have pulled one roccker cover and #4 exhaust valve is stuck down (assuming bent).  Push rod appears to be ok.  The valve spring keeper was broken.

well, hopefully when you pull the head there isnt any damage..  That would be great..  if you dont have a valve, or cant get one, post the number from the valve head..  I may have some.. (used ones)..  

8 hours ago, RS Disposal said:

I have pulled one roccker cover and #4 exhaust valve is stuck down (assuming bent).  Push rod appears to be ok.  The valve spring keeper was broken.

Sounds like a bent valve then. If you're lucky you just need a valve, don't need a head.

  • Like 1
On 9/24/2023 at 7:54 PM, JoeH said:

Sounds like a bent valve then. If you're lucky you just need a valve, don't need a head.

Pulled second rocker cover.  everything there appears to be fine.  I can twist the pushrods no problem.  How much of a possibilty is it that I am going to actually need a head and a possible piston.  Obviously I have one bent valve, but with light truck gasoline engines (I'm a light truck/automotive mechanic) subject to valve float/bent valve I have seen ones that didn't crack the piston

I'd bet your head is fine, and piston may have a tiny dent in it that needs to be deburred.  When you take the head off, DONT set it down right side up, you will crush the injector nozzles! You will probably just need the one valve, maybe the guide,  and maybe a valve seat? 

  • Like 2
19 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Minimal chance of interference.. would be my guess.  Is the valve bent or possibly gummed up?  Just being hopeful here.

pretty sure bent.  When I grab onto it with a pair of pliers it doesn't move at all

40 minutes ago, JoeH said:

I'd bet your head is fine, and piston may have a tiny dent in it that needs to be deburred.  When you take the head off, DONT set it down right side up, you will crush the injector nozzles! You will probably just need the one valve, maybe the guide,  and maybe a valve seat? 

I am keeping my fingers crossed as to what extent of damage there is.  Im just trying to source parts for a worse case scenario just in case.  Looks like I need to go to the dealer and see if he can give me some part numbers.  Nobody seems to be able to pull up anything on the truck from the VIN, which in the past with other parts the dealer has had no problem finding the trk thjru the VIN

You will not know till the head is off. Not much room between the valve and piston at TDC.  I have the head of a valve that broke off and planted itself in the piston crown on my wall of shame. Wasn't a Mack but a Leyland 680, which looks an awful lot like a Mack.

 I hope you get away with just a new valve, but I would be surprised if that is all it took. 

 If you need to get the truck running ASAP, cost be damned, then get a head, have it gone through and a piston and tear into it. If you can wait, then disassemble and see what you need.

I've "patched" a lot of engines where parts were not available, but it is never a quick process. If your loosing money every minute the truck is down, then sourceing used parts and new gaskets while they are coming tear the engine down is the way to go.

 IF the valve hit the injector tip, then you'll need one of those, but you can't tell until the head is off.

So far it looks like the head is no longer available (still looking though).  Pistons and the associated rings, valves etc. are.  Guess I need to pull the head and actually access the damage.  Quick question, is there a trick to getting the exhaust manifold nuts off?  Would it be a problem heating up the nuts?

Try finding anything for a Gardner or Leyland in this country.  Start calling yards, Even if you don't need one, finding out what can be had is money in the bank.ld

If it were I, a used head, that can be re-worked, would be something I'd be looking for. It doesn't have to be new or rebuilt, just no cracks and good valves.  There are my ways to repair guides and seats can be replaced.

 I guess it comes from working on old, orphan engines, you 1st look for what is available then go from there.

 Cracked heads can be repaired, but not cheaply. Rings can be ordered by size and shape, even if full ring sets are not available.

Heat the nuts, slit the nuts, there are many ways to go forward. Look at what is important, The nuts aren't as important as the studs, and are easier to replace.

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