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Guessing is over now

Looks like a collet broke, the bit the holds the valve in the valve spring keeper

I have found this before on Mack E6 motor

I would get the checked for cracks and make a plan from there

Finding out the state of the head to me is important before making any decisions 

In the mean time, check everything else like push rods, cam etc and really try and nail down what is what while waiting to hear about the head 

 

Paul

  • Like 1
On 10/6/2023 at 6:41 PM, 880joe said:

Would a head from a 84 or 85 2 valve e6 be the same?

Im not sure.  Maybe somebody here can answer that.  I will also maybe go back to the dealer and see if they are able to answer that question

Just now, terry said:

That rebuilt head from Vander Haggs didn’t work out?    Terry:MackLogo:

I called and they told me that it was actually out of stock at this time but I could check back being they are continually rebuilding heads

 

Just now, terry said:

Just checked your profile says you’re in Utah, I might know of some of them here, but you’re a long way from Omaha.🤷‍♀️. Terry:MackLogo:

Yea, I am.  Not too many older trucks in the west from what I understand.  If my head isn't repairable then finding a good rebuildable in a wrecking yard is my next move and if need be having it shipped

2 hours ago, terry said:

Biggest problem with them heads are cracks between valve seats and between injector hole and valve seat.    terry:MackLogo:

I did notice a small crack between the injector hole and valve seat.   I am hoping that the shop is able to tell me that the head is repairable.

Cracking there is common but not normally a concern, don't over think this until you hear back from the place with your head, almost anything is repairable and the U.S. has a lot more heads than Australia ever had and I wouldn't be concerned about tracking one down in Australia 

 

 

Paul  

3 hours ago, RS Disposal said:

I did notice a small crack between the injector hole and valve seat.   I am hoping that the shop is able to tell me that the head is repairable.

Yeah i have seen alot of them used with small cracks there.   terry:MackLogo:

My machine shop is having a hard time getting an injector out, which has to happen before he can send the head for repair.  Says he doesn't have alot of time to work on that issue.  Going to go pick it up and work on it myself.  Any pointers as to what I should try?

When I had to pull my injectors from an ENDT 673,  I used PB Blaster from the top and slowly worked the injectors side to side.. i was not able to remove the hold down studs due to rust.. it took me an hour each, on average... dirt and rust got in and around the injector, and the sealing oring was the cause for them being bound up in the bores...  

This isn't a "stuck" injector, it is one that has been peened in like a rivet. The nozzle end has been hit and expanded like the end of a rivet.

 A true machinist should be able to mill the nozzle end off and press the injector out. Injector is ruined but you don't want to do more damage than has already been done to the injector copper area at the bottom of the hole. This too has to be replaced (injector copper).

 A place that claims they can fix that head, should be able to and have dealt with this problem before.  I'd contact them 1st and see, they might say just send it as is. The last thing you want to do is make it worse. I'm not convinced that head can be successfully (at least economically successful) repaired.

 Injector is junk, valve seats are junk, injector hole and copper are at least damaged, worse case mill the injector out like you were boring the raw casing. That is not a job for a DIY or even most engine machine shops, it is a specialists job, and that is where this head should be going anyway.

I am again, going to suggest looking for a whole core engine. Talk to the independent shops, tell them what you are looking for, they may know of a yard or even a customer that has some "junk" trucks that would be willing to part them out.

 1st find out what heads will work. If it were a Cummins, I could tell you, I don't know Mack engines that well.

I might even try Reading truck (used to be called something else, big truck equipment co) in SLC as they outfitted the Utah DOT Macks, they may know where to find used Mack stuff

 Once you know what heads will work, then go in person to places, most will not put in the time on the phone or internet inquires, If they don't have it, they just say no and move on, in person they may send you to the service mgr who may know where what you are looking for can be found. Most places will do all they can for someone standing in front of them.

 Be prepared to buy a whole core engine, many will not want an engine missing a head sitting in the yard, As I have said, whole cores can be had for less than the rebuilt heads you were trying to find. I would stick to cores that will turn 360  deg or even better running cores.

Dealers aren't the best for this stuff, they deal in new and don't see the old stuff, plenty of independent shops around SLC, I don't know much about south or east Utah. I don't know where you are located.

 With a whole core engine, you get core injectors, which you'll need or have to pay core charge, and more spare parts than you can shake a stick at, in the long run it will pay for itself and the repair of the engine you have now.

 

In my search for a head I keep hearing that it must be the same casting number as my head.  What is the difference between the casting numbers?  Anybody really know what heads will work?  I know there is a 4 valve and a 2 valve head and since mine is 2 valve it is obvious as to what I need there.

I may of found a core engine that the guy says matches my engine ID plate.  Says he will sell just the head, but if I want the whole engine I can do that also.  Limited info on this engine right now until monday as to whether it is a running core or not and I will also ask about casting number.  Engine is 90 miles north of me which isn't a big deal if I really want to go look at it.  Not sure how I will unload it off the trailer, but guess I cross that bridge when I get there.

Also another question about sources additional parts.  I think I finally found the intake & water manifold gaskets and what looks like exhaust gaskets through AGKITS (which shows them as being PAI, but when my supplier was talking with them they couldn't find anything other than head gaskets.  Questions now is where can I find the metal nut keepers ( not sure what they are called) where you fold over the tab on the exhaust manifold.?  The gasket set doesn't show those.

 

I think but do not hold me to this that as long as it has the right amount of studs and is a two valve head off a E6 it should be okay

If the injector is stuffed as it probably (definitely) is now and you reckon the head might be as well, just take a die grinder to the remnants of the injector and carefully get stuck into it with a bur bit in the die grinder

If nothing else you will learn a bit about it

Dunno about changing the whole motor with another second hand motor 

You dunno what your buying, no matter how well intentioned the seller may be 

Everything you do to this motor now is a known quantity, chucking some other unknown quantity in is like throwing good money after bad to me 

Anyway thats my 2 cents worth

 

Paul

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I think but do not hold me to this that as long as it has the right amount of studs and is a two valve head off a E6 it should be okay

If the injector is stuffed as it probably (definitely) is now and you reckon the head might be as well, just take a die grinder to the remnants of the injector and carefully get stuck into it with a bur bit in the die grinder

If nothing else you will learn a bit about it

Dunno about changing the whole motor with another second hand motor 

You dunno what your buying, no matter how well intentioned the seller may be 

Everything you do to this motor now is a known quantity, chucking some other unknown quantity in is like throwing good money after bad to me 

Anyway thats my 2 cents worth

 

Paul

I wasn't considering changing out the whole engine .  Was just thinking of having spare parts. I don't have anything in my shop big enough to take the cab off and lift an engine out.  As stated in previous posts this engine only has about 150,000 miles on it.  Unfortunately a collet broke dropping the valve into the cylinder. Being the guy is willing to sell just the head I am assuming that it isn't a running core, therefore as far as spare parts not sure actually what there might be and what I might need.

Edited by RS Disposal
spelling and further thoughts
  • Like 1

RS Disposal,,  Will you be able to use any of the info i posted?  I sure hope so..  I can E-mail the pictures to you if you are willing to share your e-mail..  Jojo

3 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

RS Disposal,,  Will you be able to use any of the info i posted?  I sure hope so..  I can E-mail the pictures to you if you are willing to share your e-mail..  Jojo

I do believe it is of some help. any and all part numbers I have has been of help being the only supplier I have been working with that can do anything with the VIN number is the dealer. Everybody else tells me the VIN number is not a good Mack VIN.  Dealer has been really helpful in looking up and providing me with Mack part numbers.  With that info I have been able to pretty much track down what I need that is no longer available thru the dealer.

Pics would be great

rs.disposal@gmail.com

 

Sorry for all the questions, but as I mentioned earlier this is my first heavy truck engine.  Been cleaning up bolts and misc parts today in prep for new parts later this week. How important is it that I replace all the head bolts?

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