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2 minutes ago, terry said:

Don't know about thread locker on the rod bolts, but on head bolts be sure to run a bottom tap in head bolt holes, and blow out with air, and a die on headbolt thread and washers, oil threads as you said.    terry:MackLogo: 

Being I didn't have a 5/8th tap or die I did order a new pair to do just that

I find if I use a die nut instead of a die they work better, I feel a die is to aggressive and takes metal off the thread, a die nut sort of just cleans it up and pushes the thread back into shape rather than cut

You blokes might not call them die nuts, you use funny names like zerk for grease nipples 

Imagine telling a shelia she gas zerks you could, oh never mind lol

Heres a picture of a die nut

M4403600.jpg.c51b15659b389bb4a1416ceb3973f12f.jpg

They are only any good for cleaning up threads, not cutting them

 

Paul

  • Like 1

we do use 'Taps and Dies' as well.  I have a thread chasing kit. They are less aggressive than taps and dies.  good for cleaning existing threads..  Gooday to ya' Paul..   Jojo

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Agree on the chasers. Sometimes taps and dies do cut more than expected. Just need to clean them up. 
I have used both though. 

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

30 minutes ago, RS Disposal said:

Thanks for all the insite.  Got word back from the machine shop. Heads was magnafluxed and no cracks.  just need to pick up the necessary parts to do a valve job

Got lucky!  Terry:MackLogo:

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I'll second that !!    Happy for you..

Pretty sure I might end up having more questions. Machine shop recommends all new parts. He has the valves and guides and the dealer I believe told me all valve train parts were still available so I am headed to the dealer to get them ordered.  Going to take turbo in to make sure there was no damage to it also.

Another quick question.  I didn't notice and valve stem seals when the head was disassembled.  Is this normal for a big diesel engine.  Are there actually seals available for them?

I would assume there are seals.  If you P.M. your address to me, I will send you a bag of seals.  I'm not sure if they are correct, but you can see if they work.. I have lots of them.  

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Still don't havew my head, but machine shop was confident mid week this week.  Was informed by my turbo people that my turbo is bad.  He is having trouble sourcing parts thru his normal vendors.  So I guess I need to start my own search for either a good rebuildable or an already rebuilt turbo.  Any suggestions as to a staring point would be appreciated.

Mack part # - 631GC4101P12

just make sure you get any and all of your old parts back..   You may need them later when you find a shop that CAN fix it..  I have a turbo shop an hour away. He is from Germany and some how can re-build older turbos and he even had a turbo for a 22 year old Isuzu Diesel I rebuilt, on his shelf..  

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in my search for a turbo (mack number 631GC4101P12)  I am finding quite a few sites that are listing the turbo if I use 4LE-303.  But there are a few different other numbers that keep coming up.  What is the difference between 185604, 185605 & 185606?  I am totally confused

  • 2 weeks later...

still wasn't able to find what the differences actually are between the 185604, 185605 & 185606 CHRA cartridge so I ordered a NOS 185606 based on numbers cross referencing on this web page for a 185604, http://www.invasionautoproducts.com/19mava4letu11.html .  States this turbo is compatible for my mack number 631GC4101P12.  Well, I think I may of found what the difference is.  The 185606 won't work with my turbo.  Compressor side is much larger so I am thinking the difference is probably different sizes on the compressor side.  Turbine side appears to be the same but didn't go any further. So, if anybody needs a 185606 new CHRA cartridge I will be listing it on ebay for what I paid $350 plus shipping.

On another note, I did get my head back and am in the process of putting it back on.  Question is, how important is the retorquing of the head bolts?  Do I really need to run the truck under a load for 1/2 to 1 hour or just let it run and warm up for 1/2 to 1 hour?  Retorquing will require removing the rocker are assembly again being it covers several of the capscrews.

Fingers crossed everything goes good on reassembly

ok..  so I was reluctant to post what I do.. but terry opened the door....    99 percent of the engines  I have rebuilt were leaving the shop never to be seen again...  (hopefully) .....   

I would add 10 lbft to the head bolts...  (E-7/E-Tech)  210-215 lbft.  total torque, with a torque wrench, and knowing how the bolts feel.. ''you can feel it if it is to loose or getting too tight..   I have not had a report of a leak or other issue's with my wicked way :) 

  • Like 2
12 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

ok..  so I was reluctant to post what I do.. but terry opened the door....    99 percent of the engines  I have rebuilt were leaving the shop never to be seen again...  (hopefully) .....   

I would add 10 lbft to the head bolts...  (E-7/E-Tech)  210-215 lbft.  total torque, with a torque wrench, and knowing how the bolts feel.. ''you can feel it if it is to loose or getting too tight..   I have not had a report of a leak or other issue's with my wicked way :) 

My thoughts exactly as to how many engines actually go back to the shop for a retorque.  My truck just runs in the city with about 25% fast idle time running PTO. Very little freeway, and at that my truck only really works4 days a week in winter and 2 days a week in summer and even at that an average of 6 hrs is all.  It don't work real hard LOL  Think I might just got with the 225 ft lb spec ot calls for on the retorque

Edited by RS Disposal
additional thought
3 minutes ago, terry said:

A agree with joeys system on a few more pounds of torque one time and run, I have seen guys do that without a problem.  Terry:MackLogo:

Thanks, I did the 50 to 125 to 200 ft lbs  The retorque spec says 225 so I think that is what I'll do and then just watch for any leaks

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for what its worth...  I cant tell you how many heads I have installed on Mack engines..  Its got to be around 100..  even when I do get to see the truck a few months or a year later, I would look for leaks, with the acception of an occasional coolant hose drip,  here and there, all good..  Glad you guys agree..   Jojo

  • Like 1
3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

for what its worth...  I cant tell you how many heads I have installed on Mack engines..  Its got to be around 100..  even when I do get to see the truck a few months or a year later, I would look for leaks, with the acception of an occasional coolant hose drip,  here and there, all good..  Glad you guys agree..   Jojo

Now if I can just nail down my turbo parts or rebuilt problem :(

I've only had to do a head on these once, I did it by the book.  Torque to 200, drive around got an hour, retorque.  Its a pain to have to deal with all the intake tubing, and those valve covers are horrible to seal. Gotta do them dry and do not go above torque spec.

  • Like 1

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