Joey Mack Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 As far as the timing marks go, 2 cyls are adjust on each position, but not at the same time. 1&6/2&5/3&4.. but just because you pointed the pointer to 1&6, doesn't mean you are up on #1 . You could be up on #6, and if you adjust #1 then follow the firing order as you rotate the engine, your adjusts will be done 180 degrees out.. are you sure you were up on #1 when you ran the valves, also, do you have 2 pointers on the front, if so, one is for the injection pump timing... Jojo 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/73314-looking-for-1979-mack-engine-head/page/8/#findComment-544579 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 36 minutes ago, RS Disposal said: I think when it comes time to do the radiator I will take it into a local shop that does heavy truck radiators. I don't have the expertise or tools to do the soldering of this brass radiator I am the same, I don't bother trying to do anything myself with a radiator unless Im broken down somewhere Last R model radiator cost 5 grand Australian to get recored Yeah it's a lot of coin but nothing compared to the cost of a motor Paul 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/73314-looking-for-1979-mack-engine-head/page/8/#findComment-544581 Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 (edited) 16 hours ago, Joey Mack said: As far as the timing marks go, 2 cyls are adjust on each position, but not at the same time. 1&6/2&5/3&4.. but just because you pointed the pointer to 1&6, doesn't mean you are up on #1 . You could be up on #6, and if you adjust #1 then follow the firing order as you rotate the engine, your adjusts will be done 180 degrees out.. are you sure you were up on #1 when you ran the valves, also, do you have 2 pointers on the front, if so, one is for the injection pump timing... Jojo Yea, I do understand the concept of the timing of only one cylinder at a time. Before I realized there were marks on the vibration dampener I was bumping the engine over, but it was hard to know for sure if I was on true TDC because alot of the time the engine would spin backwards a bit due to compression. There is only only one pointer on the front of my engine. The marks were extremely hard to see, but I was able to actually locate them after cleaning off the vibration dampener. I was able to get to the approximate location of the marks by counting the number of teeth on the flywheel for a full revolution from the #1 TDC mark and dividing by 3 to give me an idea of where to look. I was then able to get right on by slowly rotating the engine a tooth at a time untill the TDC marks were right on Edited January 4 by RS Disposal Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/73314-looking-for-1979-mack-engine-head/page/8/#findComment-544607 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post JoeH Posted January 4 Popular Post Share Posted January 4 We paint our 3 TDC marks with a bright yellow marker and which cylinders are on TDC with each mark. Saves a lot of headache. 3 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/73314-looking-for-1979-mack-engine-head/page/8/#findComment-544610 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 That's good RSDisposal.. it was an effort, but you got it. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/73314-looking-for-1979-mack-engine-head/page/8/#findComment-544611 Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 8 hours ago, JoeH said: We paint our 3 TDC marks with a bright yellow marker and which cylinders are on TDC with each mark. Saves a lot of headache. I definitely marked the TDC marks and now that I know they are there, when I need them again I will know 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/73314-looking-for-1979-mack-engine-head/page/8/#findComment-544623 Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS Disposal Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 I am still having this noise in the intake. The truck seems to be running ok. A quick question, pretty sure this turbo is producing more boost than the original. From what I have been able to find out, the original was around 15 - 17 lbs boost. This turbo looks like it will boost upwards of around 20 lbs boost. I don't let it run that high before I back out of it. Is there a possibility that this much boost for THIS engine might be cause some mechanical issues? I know my Cummins N14 runs around 20 lbs when going up the canyon, that that is a totally different and much larger engine. I also think I might start a new topic with this issue where as I am no longer looking for a head. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/73314-looking-for-1979-mack-engine-head/page/8/#findComment-544800 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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