Jump to content

Recommended Posts

From what I understand these brass radiators do need to be rodded out occasionally, Which is something I am planning on. But I thought I would tackle the simple things first.  In going thru the maintenance history, I don't see where the water filter was last changed.  My question is does all the water flow thru the filter or only a portion of it as the systems circulates the coolant?  Could a plugged filter be a problem?  Going to change that today anyway just so I can log when it was changed.  Also bought a thermostat kit That I will hopefully change out later this week, weather cooperating being I work outdoors, just in case I do have a problematic thermostat.  The truck runs about 190 all day long in the city.  Only gets hot when I climb the canyon, where I do stop and let it cool.

Link to comment
https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/73775-1979-mack-e6-engine-cooling-issue/
Share on other sites

I had the same exact problem with my dump truck. Threw a thermostat at it no luck. Took the radiator off and hosed off the fins on both sides and between CAC and  that solved the problem. Keep in mind I run on and off road and in dusty environments tho may not be your case but ez to check. 

  • Like 1
22 hours ago, Straydog954 said:

I had the same exact problem with my dump truck. Threw a thermostat at it no luck. Took the radiator off and hosed off the fins on both sides and between CAC and  that solved the problem. Keep in mind I run on and off road and in dusty environments tho may not be your case but ez to check. 

My truck doesn't have a CAC and have washed off the radiator fins.  Was the first thing I thought of. Pretty sure I am going to have to eventually take radiator into the shop.  But was just wondering about how much of the coolant actually flowed thu the water filter.  I do understand the problems a bad thermostat can cause.  Right now just trrying the simple things first one at a time.  I'm one that likes to know what fix works and what doesn't work.

  • Like 1
19 hours ago, JoeH said:

Also what kind of fan clutch do you have? The heat activated type or a fixed fan? If fixed then you're getting all the air flow possible out of the fan, and if  heat activated then it is possible the clutch is worn out and not pulling enough air.  You should hear the fan roar to life when it kicks on. 

My 1980 DM686 has no thermostat installed and has a fixed fan. It's just a yard truck now for unloading our cement trailer. Runs at 1700 rpms for about an hour to unload, and the engine temp stays between 150 and 180.

Side note on thermostats, I always make sure they have pin hole drilled in them to facilitate purging air out of the system. Hate imagining an air pocket trapped against the thermostat and not getting hot enough to open.

I do have the heat activated clutch fan.  I can hear it roar to life at times but not really when I would think it should be.  I have a cab over so I'm right there by the fan.  That was one thing on my list of replacing as I troubleshoot the problem.  Pretty sure my radiator needs to be rodded, but right now my truck can't be down for that length of time so I just watch my temp really close.  Its fine all day long in the valley

21 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

the water filter just takes a small sample of water.. I highly doubt the issue is there..  Yes, cleaning/ rodding the radiator can prove well.  Another possiblilty is pump cavitation.  as you go along on this, I recommend you get the 2 pump gaskets, and pull the pump and inspect the impeller and the housing. When looking at the housing, ( the part that stays mounted to the engine) you are looking for pitting and grooves caused by air in the cooling system..  if you find that, you will need a new housing, cavitation will reduce coolant flow enough to raise engine temp. 

I will definitely look at that when I change out the water pump.  Pretty sure the radiator needs rodding out.  I'm just trying to understand this engine as I'm sure you are aware of from my "Needing Mack Head" thread

I will add that our DM was overheating running the blower motor for unloading cement.  Swapping over to the fixed fan made a world of difference. Old fan clutch was probably worn out.

This truck is a good worker for you, I'd swap the fan clutch and see if that helps.

Edited by JoeH
13 hours ago, JoeH said:

Which cabover model do you have? Just curious what radiator it has.  Our MR688 has a monster radiator. Tons of cooling. Probably half again the size of a typical R model, and the same engine. 

I believe the model is MR685.  Dealer lists it as a box truck, but it has a garbage compacter body on it

13 hours ago, JoeH said:

I will add that our DM was overheating running the blower motor for unloading cement.  Swapping over to the fixed fan made a world of difference. Old fan clutch was probably worn out.

This truck is a good worker for you, I'd swap the fan clutch and see if that helps.

The fan clutch was one thing that is on the list of replacing.  Not sure about a fixed fan though being a cab over and the fan just right there next to the seats.  Kinda noisy now when the clutch fan does kick in sounding like a jet engine.  It's just not kicking in when I would think it should.  Thew truck has been a real good worker even though it is an older truck, 1979.  Only has about 145,000 road miles on it, most of which are city miles.  But engine miles are more from running the pto for the compactor

17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

It's All Good Bud...  Jojo

I want to again thank you for all your insight and help over my journey with the breakdown I had last year. Being a newbie when it came to heavy trk diesel engines, I did learn alot in helping me understand this engine being my goal is to keep the truck in service for a while still.

  • Like 2
20 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Maybe you relieved an air pocket, and it improved the cooling.. there are Mack engines without coolant filters.  Anyway, that's good..

Are these engines difficult to get all the air out of the cooling system?  I know my daughter's jeep is a major pain in the butt to get the air purged out

On 1/27/2024 at 11:15 AM, JoeH said:

I.dpnt think so, but just make sure any thermostat you put in has about a 1/8th inch bleeder hole in it to allow it to burp on initial warmup.

the factory thermostat does have a bleed hole that does state either forward or up depending on orientation. the hole is now where near 1/8 th.  Should I enlarge this?

  • 4 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...