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5 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Only heard of people having issues, but never dealt with it myself. Lucky??  

I doubt you are running the stock gauges on your race car, so you wouldn't be using one, unless for fuel, but that would be a cell no?

 They worked fairly well but were a known weak point. Early King Seeley gauges had that part in the sender itself and those senders are hard to come by now.

 I don't know when Ford and Chry phased out the K-S gauges early 80's?

Actually the wagon has a alum cell my friend made for it, I installed an aftermarket sending unit for a Ford gauge so it reads properly in the stock dash.  Since the cell is under the car I can't just see in the top, it also fills from the stock filler cap on the side of the car.  If the cell was in the back of the car, I would have to have a panel made to divide it from the passenger compartment for fire safety.  I didn't want to deal with that.  The cell is narrow to clear the wheelie bars.

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IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

49 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

Plus I know how to work on things without butchering them.  Thus my wire harnesses are all nice and fully functional in all my 

That's a big plus....I'm the same way....as Lynrd Skynrd Said "I know little....Baby we can guess The rest" 

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On 4/23/2024 at 1:45 AM, other dog said:

I'm going out there and try to see what I can see on the carburetor but I'm waiting for it to warm up a little. We had frost here this morning and it's only up to the lower 50's now. I'm going to try to take that pressure regulator off and look at it. I won't know what I'm looking at, but I'll look.

The gas had to go through 3 filters before it got that far but that doesn't mean much, it was still running on that crappy gas when it was running. It has the in-line filter, a little canister type filter, then the electric fuel pump has a filter in it too.

What's the current state of affairs with the new ride

Any luck yet ??

 

Paul

On 4/24/2024 at 5:02 AM, mrsmackpaul said:

What's the current state of affairs with the new ride

Any luck yet ??

 

Paul

I took the carburetor off and cleaned it as best I could, it will run but only with the choke mostly closed, the next thing I'm going to check is the vacuum in the distributor. It acts like it has a vacuum leak but I couldn't find any, and that's the only thing I haven't checked yet.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

I use carb cleaner or brake cleaner to check for vacuum leaks. Spray round carb base, carb gaskets, and intake and listen for change in idle.

Also can't hurt to spray vacuum hoses either 

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when you are up to your armpits in alligators,

it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp..

2 hours ago, other dog said:

You got that right! Reminds me of the time I took a Dodge pickup I had to a little garage in Concord for something. The man said "I can't work on that, it's got a carburetor and I don't work on anything that old". 

It was a '91 model I think, which to me is not "that old". And it didn't have a carburetor, it had the throttle body injection. What he was REALLY saying was " if I can't just plug a computer into it and let it tell me what the issue is I can't work on it".

And here I am at 36 and hate working on or attempting to work on vehicles that don't have a Carb or throttle body injection. 🤔 that's why I own a 1976 Chevrolet Cheyenne C20 I can work on it myself 

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3 hours ago, other dog said:

I took the carburetor off and cleaned it as best I could, it will run but only with the choke mostly closed, the next thing I'm going to check is the vacuum in the distributor. It acts like it has a vacuum leak but I couldn't find any, and that's the only thing I haven't checked yet.

If you have checked for a vacuum leak (unmetered air entering after the carb). take a good look at the distributor. Any play in the shaft can cause the dwell to go haywire when the advance starts to pull in.

 I'd 1st check the carb and intake for reason why it seams to be lean. But if you find nothing wrong look at the ign side of things.

 I had a 392 in a school bus that was in a shop for a valve job. Wouldn't run for crap and the shop wanted to put a new carb on, I wouldn't authorize it as I knew the carb was fine. They put one on to "show me" and it didn't run any better, had egg on their face and had to re-install the old carb and eat the price of the new one.

 Put a dwell meter on the ign and strapped to the windshield, and as soon as the advance started the dwell dropped to nothing. Long and short was the shaft bushing were shot and it needed a distributor. Also make sure the mechanical advance is free and the weights can move the shaft. Use a mighty vac to test the vacuum advance.

 It would act like fuel, stubble and back-fire with an occasional after-fire. 

 I had to farm out the valve job because the place I was working, caring for their fleet, the bus took up the whole shop and was very difficult to get it in under its own power, would have been impossible to get it out and back in while the heads were being worked on.

 There is an old saying that 90% of carb problems are ign problems.

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file:///C:/Users/jojot/OneDrive/Desktop/KIMG0044.JPG

Heres a picture of my 'Beatah'  Old Blue..  notice the respect for Watts Mack.... Yes, I drive this Beauty every day..  :) 

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1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

file:///C:/Users/jojot/OneDrive/Desktop/KIMG0044.JPG

Heres a picture of my 'Beatah'  Old Blue..  notice the respect for Watts Mack.... Yes, I drive this Beauty every day..  :) 

sure build us up to let us down !! what the heck LOL

4 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

yeah,  it was nothing great, I was posting for RubberDuck..  Just my home made truck..  y'all have seen it..  

blue and white with the bud radiator winter front  LOL . great not important in todays world ;; more important is  when it retains the term RELIABLE. 

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