Geoff Weeks Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Thought you might be interested in this, 16,000 lb hitch for the K-7. They make a 20,000 lb version but realistically I don't think I have anything over 5,000lbs I'll be using it on. I had 10,000 on the bed before, however. If I am going much over that, I'd want a 5th wheel over the drive and not a rear pull. The truck had a hitch (holes seen on the rear) but it was too high for everything I tow, and always ran into it when I was working around the back of the truck. There is a 1/2" plate steel there welded into the frame and braced diagonally from further up. Very stout. I left all that, and added in a axle U bolt to it from the receiver, which should add even more strength to the already over built 16,000 factory rating. This set-up is all behind the rear of the truck when the ball mount is removed. I got a N.O.S, Kelsey-Hayes electric brake controller rated for both 6 and 12 volts. In the lit for it (circa 1975) it stated that ALL electric brake magnets are "8 volt units" suitable for use on both 6 (7.2 volt) and 12 volt systems. I don't think much has changed in electric brake magnets over the years. The K-7 has all the brakes it need to stop over 20K but if the bed is unloaded, the trailer can push the rear around, that is where trailer brakes make all the difference. Most states don't require below around 3500 lbs, but I have two single axles I spec'd with brakes anyway. I looked into buying metal to make my own, but the whole ball of wax including the ball mount was around $160 and I couldn't come up with the steel for that price. Pictures are the final fitment prior to tack welding the cross tube, then remove the whole thing and weld in position. Bolts to the frame with 5/8 and 1/2" grade 8 frame bolts. 2 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74071-k-7-trailer-hitch-for-jo-jo/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 That is pretty nice. Thank you for thinking of me.. My plan for the truck was to be a toy.. I was thinking about putting a 5th wheel on it for looks, and a short rack body behind the cab for groceries ( I do have 13' of frame behind the cab) I didnt think about a hitch. however, if i'm in a parade, I could pull a hay wagon full of kids and their parents. Hmmm... 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74071-k-7-trailer-hitch-for-jo-jo/#findComment-550041 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 I am going to take the 5th wheel off one of my junk frames and make an adapter to drop on the back of the K's bed, already am working on the compressor mount, have plenty of air tanks and compressors laying around. If I really wanted to do it right, I could get an air pack to replace the hydovac and then it would be legal to pull semi's with it. I only own a storage trailer now so no big deal. I was presently surprised at the cost. Calling around for "small bits" of steel the prices were high. This has the added value that if stopped by a DOT cop, it has the factory weight rating sticker on it. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74071-k-7-trailer-hitch-for-jo-jo/#findComment-550042 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 too bad we are so far apart. I have access to lots of cut offs.. both stainless and #2 steel and aluminum too.. I get it for free. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74071-k-7-trailer-hitch-for-jo-jo/#findComment-550044 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 That is why I am holding on to some old truck frames. A lot of steel in them that may come in handy. In this case to build what I wanted would have been more work then buying pre made, of sorts. It is a universal hitch that can go on the back of anything with frame spacing up to 40". I have enough time in just making sure it is true and drilling and reaming the holes. I could have used old Fleetstar C channel frame for the drops, but the frame-rail is more valuable to me whole for ramps, etc. In the end, just buying, fitting and welding was less work and money ahead in the long run. 2 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74071-k-7-trailer-hitch-for-jo-jo/#findComment-550045 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted April 17 Share Posted April 17 Looks good to me, that style of hitch is pretty common in Australia, most medium American size trucks that I see, and bigger have a big flat plat that hangs right done with all the lights They look strong and all, this is more of what I might expect to see in Australia Looks really neat Geoff Paul 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74071-k-7-trailer-hitch-for-jo-jo/#findComment-550048 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted April 17 Author Share Posted April 17 I have one Fleetstar that has that type (pintle hook) below the frame, but this a is K-7 with a GVW between 16500 and 21500, so more or less in the Loadstar GVW range. A lighter truck than most that pull a pup. As you see it has a flat bed on it that covers the rear of the frame. The rear of the bed was stout, the original hitch was bolted to 1/2" plate tied to the truck frame and braced, there was nothing wrong with original hitch if you are towing something that has the pull bar that high up. It would handle every bit as much as the one I put on, the difference is I can use differing ball mounts for varying heights. If the rear frame was exposed, I would have pulled the mount off the Fleetstar, and added the box receiver to it, giving more options on the K-7. The 269 mill will pull anything you can hook to, just at limited speed! I've had this one across the scales at over 18K and drove it 360 miles that way. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74071-k-7-trailer-hitch-for-jo-jo/#findComment-550049 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted May 22 Author Share Posted May 22 I realized I never posted the finished product. 8" drop, could have gone another inch. Next drop from 8" would have been 10". You can see where the original ball mount was, far too high for most things I'll pull. I moved on to the carb, been rebuilding Zeniths and Carters. Made a big difference, starts an runs a whole lot better. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74071-k-7-trailer-hitch-for-jo-jo/#findComment-552326 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 For the height adjustment in Australia most people for height challenges like this have this style of the hitch Many different styles to suit many different applications Looks good Geoff Paul Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74071-k-7-trailer-hitch-for-jo-jo/#findComment-552345 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 Those are popular here also. Mostly all I'll be towing are the black trailer in the picture and a tow dolly for cars, both require about the same ball height and size so a single fixed drop works for me and about 1/4 the price of an adjustable drop. Only thing I own with a Lunette ring is a 1940 generator on wagon type trailer with steel wheels. I will not be pulling that on the road! Don't know how much it weighs, has a 525 CID Buda and is 62.5 Kva. Neat running gear, sprung on both axles, wheels are spoke with steel, I don't know if it was a bomb cart that was converted, or what. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74071-k-7-trailer-hitch-for-jo-jo/#findComment-552361 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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