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Synchronizer in the Mack t310


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My truck all the sudden won’t stay in high gear in any gear it jumps out of 5,6,7,8 gear but the stick doesn’t move. How hard is to change the synchronizer’s or woulD Be better to carry it to a transmission shop. 

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It is impossible to do it 'in-chassis' without several special tools..  if you pull the trans out and stand it up on the bell housing, using some 2x8's, you can do it.. i highly recommend getting the book,  this aint no parts changing job

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2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

It is impossible to do it 'in-chassis' without several special tools..  if you pull the trans out and stand it up on the bell housing, using some 2x8's, you can do it.. i highly recommend getting the book,  this aint no parts changing job

Well for the price I just got in a reman I am going to go that route 

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I respect that..  I was a builder at Mack for years and the price of re-man w/warranty out weighed an in-house rebuild..  too bad.. I took pride in my builds..

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14 hours ago, petehall12 said:

Well for the price I just got in a reman I am going to go that route 

Yeah, it's usually cheaper to outright replace than to repair now. It used to be similar with engines, but we've seen a couple of fleets in our area request in-frames on ETECH or ASET engines, which to my surprise actually ended up being cheaper for them. 

As for transmissions (that aren't mDrives), we never tear them down with the exception of a few Allisons and one Eaton. Being a dealer, it very much is a Parts Cannon methodology: metal in trans fluid? Quote a reman and be on your merry way. 

17 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

 this aint no parts changing job

It's always a parts changing job though! 

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1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Changing parts,,  yes,,, knowing why and how, different story.. if you just put the back case together without setting bearing preload, then you have problems, for example... 

Knowing the why is paramount, how can be picked-up. I was re-rationing  a diff, I had the pinion at a local gear shop, and needed the spigot bearing peened on the shaft, so while it was there I had them replace the other two and set the pre-load (easy to do in a press). They gave it back with 0 preload on new bearings! When I pointed it out they claimed I didn't know what I was talking about, rather argue I brought it home and re-set. I guess theirs last long enough to get out of warranty, so good enough for them. 0 pre-load will outlast too much pre-load, but not nearly as much as correct pre-load.

Knowing why is the key.

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