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that speedo spiral should be a separate part from yoke. Tightening the nut/bolt on yoke to pinion is what keeps speedo drive gear tight. depending on problem with yoke ; seal leaking : a speedi -sleeve will repair wear surface. bad cap holes= that's another story.

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30 minutes ago, stutz 712 said:

Would prefer to find a used yoke for price 

I  would still look it up in the Spicer catalog, often I find people have one sitting on the shelf, can't remember what it was ordered for and just want it gone. Sell it for used price for a brand new yoke.

 Once you have the yoke number you can search it both ways, by application and Yoke number.

You'll need to know what series U joint you are using either way, the Spicer catalog will help with that, they list the dimensions. 

 

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Posted (edited)

this might help:

J300P-10 (patsdriveline.com)

Interestingly the catalog shows the speedo gear as integral on that model trans? Not seen that on other transmissions, they list one for mechanical and one for electronic.

Learn something new every day!

Edited by Geoff Weeks
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I can strongly recommend going with an electronic speedometer. Makes life easy.  Cost isn't much and the yoke for electronic seams to be available.

 If you must keep the mechanical and are willing to spend the cash to keep the original speedometer, Dakota digital makes a steppermotor cable drive to convert electronic pulse to speedo cable drive. Cost plenty though.

 depends on what your situation is. For a working truck, I would go electronic and be done with it. Hobby or restoration is a different matter. 

 Cable drive is only going to get harder as the years go by.  I used to be able to get them made up in Omaha, no more, Colorado, Texas and Michigan are the closest places now.

 What exactly is the problem with the present yoke? Can it be repaired?

 

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31 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

I can strongly recommend going with an electronic speedometer. Makes life easy.  Cost isn't much and the yoke for electronic seams to be available.

 If you must keep the mechanical and are willing to spend the cash to keep the original speedometer, Dakota digital makes a steppermotor cable drive to convert electronic pulse to speedo cable drive. Cost plenty though.

 depends on what your situation is. For a working truck, I would go electronic and be done with it. Hobby or restoration is a different matter. 

 Cable drive is only going to get harder as the years go by.  I used to be able to get them made up in Omaha, no more, Colorado, Texas and Michigan are the closest places now.

 What exactly is the problem with the present yoke? Can it be repaired?

 

another change in times " company had a roll of cable= speedo or tach with an assortment of different ends ; also the proper crip tool for fixed to cable drive ends. Jojo to answer your question above ::: most speedo spiral gears only slid onto the yoke. tightening the yoke nut compressed spiral against yoke/bearing. didn't require much for tight was only mated to speedo cable. as with much back then life was better. time killing on shuttle job , I would disconnect the speedo cable ride the highway after 5pm in summer and see alot. never showed a mile on speedo. can't have that fun today.

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1 hour ago, mechohaulic said:

another change in times " company had a roll of cable= speedo or tach with an assortment of different ends ; also the proper crip tool for fixed to cable drive ends. Jojo to answer your question above ::: most speedo spiral gears only slid onto the yoke. tightening the yoke nut compressed spiral against yoke/bearing. didn't require much for tight was only mated to speedo cable. as with much back then life was better. time killing on shuttle job , I would disconnect the speedo cable ride the highway after 5pm in summer and see alot. never showed a mile on speedo. can't have that fun today.

Forgot to mention the box with all the different gears to make up ratio adaptors. 

 This application was the 1st I've seen where they said the gear and yoke were supplied as one. New one on me as well.

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Loose like the caps drop in, or loose like the yoke has spread?

 Long and short of it is driveline is not a place to cheap out.  1st I would try with a new joint to see how the fit is before condemning a yoke that may not be able to be replaced.

 You could take the all the dimensions and see if there is another yoke that could be machined to accept a speedo drive gear, any speedo drive gear then adapt the ratio to the head with a ratio box.

 But in reality what ever you do isn't going to be cheap. It is going to come down to what you can find.  

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