Joey Mack Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 thats it GW.. I just like to ask guys to start on #1... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 23 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said: Just to add a bit of clarity, it take TWO revolutions of the crank to adjust all the valves, when it point to 1-6 that means you adjust EITHER 1 or 6 not both (depending on which is on TDC compression) then you go to the next mark in line do the same there, when you come back to 1-6 you adjust the cylinder that was TDC exhaust the first time around, and continue on until all have been adjusted. Unless it is different then I remember. So Trent !I got to ask is your damper divided in to three!? Is there the lines on the damper? Firing order153 624. 1-6. 2-5 3-4 once one 1 slack valves set it move to 2-5 set 5 move to 3-4 set three and so on ! Work through the firing order till you’re set! Also the best way to make the dam gaskets stay on is with gasketsinch both cover and gaskets let dri the coat them again and let dri! TWO coats let dri then assemble to the covers! Drop the covers on dri no oil on any surface! Make sure the dynatard washers are flat and contacting the nubs! just sayin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 1 hour ago, Geoff Weeks said: Just to add a bit of clarity, it take TWO revolutions of the crank to adjust all the valves, when it point to 1-6 that means you adjust EITHER 1 or 6 not both (depending on which is on TDC compression) then you go to the next mark in line do the same there, when you come back to 1-6 you adjust the cylinder that was TDC exhaust the first time around, and continue on until all have been adjusted. Unless it is different then I remember. Ok that helps explain it better. I only did 1 full rotation as i was adjusting. I put 1 on tdc in the compression stroke. Adjusted 1-6,rotated 120* then did 5-3, rotated 120* to do 3-4. Guess I have to redo it again. Thanks for the help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Mack engines cant be adjusted like a Cat or John Deere, for example,, Yes, you have to rotate the engine twice and follow the firing order as was stated earlier.. You got this... Jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 1 hour ago, fjh said: So Trent !I got to ask is your damper divided in to three!? Is there the lines on the damper? Firing order153 624. 1-6. 2-5 3-4 once one 1 slack valves set it move to 2-5 set 5 move to 3-4 set three and so on ! Work through the firing order till you’re set! Also the best way to make the dam gaskets stay on is with gasketsinch both cover and gaskets let dri the coat them again and let dri! TWO coats let dri then assemble to the covers! Drop the covers on dri no oil on any surface! Make sure the dynatard washers are flat and contacting the nubs! just sayin! Yes the damper is as seen in the photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: Mack engines cant be adjusted like a Cat or John Deere, for example,, Yes, you have to rotate the engine twice and follow the firing order as was stated earlier.. You got this... Jojo Yep. Glad I asked I knew I missed something. I could hear the ticking 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Lmackattack Posted July 6 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 6 1 hour ago, Geoff Weeks said: Just to add a bit of clarity, it take TWO revolutions of the crank to adjust all the valves, when it point to 1-6 that means you adjust EITHER 1 or 6 not both (depending on which is on TDC compression) then you go to the next mark in line do the same there, when you come back to 1-6 you adjust the cylinder that was TDC exhaust the first time around, and continue on until all have been adjusted. Unless it is different then I remember. Yep. I understand now that you guys explained it clear for me. I was mistakenly adjusting 2 holes every 120* of rotation. When I saw the 1-6 2-5 3-4 I thought I was to adjust both holes together. But I think i understand now. Adjust tdc cyl1 (compression stroke) rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 5 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 3 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 6 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 2 rotate 120deg and only adjust cyl 4 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Bingo !! Now if you do this to an ASET with powerleash... STOP !! and come back here for the procedure.. your doing fine... Jojo 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 It's a 4 stroke. It takes 2 full rotations, 720 degrees, to work through all 6 cylinders' combustion strokes. Each cylinder is adjusted on its combustion stroke TDC. Glad you didn't have any interference damage. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Lmackattack Posted July 6 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 6 15 hours ago, JoeH said: It's a 4 stroke. It takes 2 full rotations, 720 degrees, to work through all 6 cylinders' combustion strokes. Each cylinder is adjusted on its combustion stroke TDC. Glad you didn't have any interference damage. I am as well. However as I was adjusting them I never moved one adjuster more than about a 1/4 turn from their original position. I also spun it over with my ratchet 3 or 4 times before I started it just to make sure It was not interfering with the pistons 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 did you post a video of it running? I really glad you took the advice/instrution.. this Web Site is a great resource.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 1 hour ago, Joey Mack said: did you post a video of it running? I really glad you took the advice/instrution.. this Web Site is a great resource.. this was last week after I put the heads back on https://youtu.be/ZXFH3xLgHtM?si=zPMPUuQFagmrnnvT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Yep I saw that one, well if you want to post a longer vid of it now that you got the valves right, it would be pretty cool.. I'm proud for you.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 46 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: Yep I saw that one, well if you want to post a longer vid of it now that you got the valves right, it would be pretty cool.. I'm proud for you.. I'll get a new vid next week 😎 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 25 minutes ago, Lmackattack said: I'll get a new vid next week 😎 Yup you dun good! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted July 10 Author Share Posted July 10 Ok. Got them re adjusted. I checked each set of rockers before adjusting them. I found Holes 1, 5 and 3 were spot on as expected. Holes 6,2 and 4 were loose. After re setting them all to .016 and .024 I fired it off and no ticking sounds like the other day. I have The incorrect exhaust clamp on the downpipe, so you might hear some exhaust leak in the video.But the ticking is definitely gone from the other day. Test drove. Builds 24psi boost, Pyro was 950 with foot on brake holding rpm at 1600 in direct for about 20 seconds. Engine is definitely quieter and smoother all around. Even at idle it's smoother. Thanks again for everybody's help. https://youtu.be/1OGatrOBdl8?si=9Nyouam3FCGJUN8V 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 10 Share Posted July 10 Sounds good and looks like the valves were dancin good and smooth.. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post fjh Posted July 10 Popular Post Share Posted July 10 1 hour ago, Joey Mack said: Sounds good and looks like the valves were dancin good and smooth.. Sounds good! Remember to double glue them gaskets! And silicone on the hold down bolts 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 10 Share Posted July 10 such an excellent sound. everyone has their own thing; be it sound of trains/ planes/ boats etc. that engine beats them all. memory maker . 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 4 hours ago, mechohaulic said: such an excellent sound. everyone has their own thing; be it sound of trains/ planes/ boats etc. that engine beats them all. memory maker . Nope for me a v8 a locamotive or a radial plane engine does the trick! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 I just like to see and hear any good engine rebuild.. However, I repect the passion for specific engines. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 Valve cover gaskets go on bone dry, only torque to spec, no more. Over torquing squishes the valve cover out of shape, and any sort of glue/adhesive makes the gasket slippery, it'll bulge out of position and leak oil. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 14 hours ago, JoeH said: Valve cover gaskets go on bone dry, only torque to spec, no more. Over torquing squishes the valve cover out of shape, and any sort of glue/adhesive makes the gasket slippery, it'll bulge out of position and leak oil. have used a small center punch on valve covers bottom side . small indent enough to hold rubber gasket. did mostly when engine had a jacob engine brake spacer and 4 rubber gaskets were used. situation wasn't as bad when the gaskets were cork NOT rubber. yes; did a few engines when valve covers/pan gasket were cork not paper or rubber. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted July 11 Author Share Posted July 11 Heres a video I took on the test run. https://youtu.be/sSRhREtpZlA?si=SnhVHakZtzeeufg1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted July 11 Author Share Posted July 11 Should the pushrods be spinning back and forth. Just curious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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