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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Turns out mine are not tapered.  Is that a bad thing?

Here is a pic of what my new kit looks like.  Looks straight forward.   But I guess i'll soon find out.   Will be starting this job in the morning.

 

https://www.meritorpartsxpress.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/en/meritor-na/r200168

Edited by Full Floater

No it's not a bad thing, or I don't think it is anyway

These can take lot of pushing to shift, or they can take virtually nothing and just slip right out

Unfortunately I find they normally take a lot to get moving

I also need to use a adjustable reamer on the bushes once I have pushed them, they shrink a bit pushing them in

They ream out easily, so just take baby size cuts, I can normally turn the reamer by hand as I wind it thru

I also muck about a bit getting as much shim in as possible between the stub axle and the axle beam, I  figure least amount of movement makes for the neatest fit and best driving pattern 

Run a drill bit thru the grease nipple (zerk) holes thru the bush, really make sure this is deburred spotlessly inside the bush and the double wound spirral groove is lined up and in the correct position on the bush and the hole, all bronze bush type of king pins I have done have a double spiral grease groove, yours maybe different 

I wouldn't want to go to all this effort and not be able to grease  them 

Good luck with it all 

 

Paul

  • Like 1
3 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

No it's not a bad thing, or I don't think it is anyway

These can take lot of pushing to shift, or they can take virtually nothing and just slip right out

Unfortunately I find they normally take a lot to get moving

I also need to use a adjustable reamer on the bushes once I have pushed them, they shrink a bit pushing them in

They ream out easily, so just take baby size cuts, I can normally turn the reamer by hand as I wind it thru

I also muck about a bit getting as much shim in as possible between the stub axle and the axle beam, I  figure least amount of movement makes for the neatest fit and best driving pattern 

Run a drill bit thru the grease nipple (zerk) holes thru the bush, really make sure this is deburred spotlessly inside the bush and the double wound spirral groove is lined up and in the correct position on the bush and the hole, all bronze bush type of king pins I have done have a double spiral grease groove, yours maybe different 

I wouldn't want to go to all this effort and not be able to grease  them 

Good luck with it all 

 

Paul

Thank you very much for the detailed reply.

As for reaming the bushings?  Are we talking the ones that appear to by nylon/plastic in this particular kit?

5 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Do you have the locking pins in the center of the axle beam? There will be a nut on one end, and just a slightly round end on the other end.  

They have the 2 "draw keys" which are tapered at one end.  That I would assume get pounded out and in.  That act as a key way into the 2 slots on the king pin.

Is that what you mean?   There is no nut of any kind on mine, far as I can see so far

Im still trying to remember a Mack with those king pins,  because i remember using feel gauges to set the clearence at the top of the axle beam. That is what the round shim pack is for...

10 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Im still trying to remember a Mack with those king pins,  because i remember using feel gauges to set the clearence at the top of the axle beam. That is what the round shim pack is for...

Seems like my other 4 Macks (all lighter spec axles) have a different style of front knuckle/king pin design.  Probably the tapered style.  Maybe this style is more specific to the heavier spec axles?

  • Like 1

Now that's a result

As a young fella not even 20 years of age, I tackled my first set of king pins, on my own, with no knowledge and all the wrong tools

I got it done, but it was a much bigger job than I ever thought

However, even today with few sets changed under my belt, it is a full day on my own, so I reckon you did okay 

Grear result

Big truck shops out here give the truck a wheel alignment after doing a set, I  dunno if it's really needed if it was tracking okay before you did the job then I reckon they track the same afterwards 

Maybe something to think about

Great result

 

Paul

20 hours ago, Full Floater said:

Seems like my other 4 Macks (all lighter spec axles) have a different style of front knuckle/king pin design.  Probably the tapered style.  Maybe this style is more specific to the heavier spec axles?

I had an older DM with a Rockwell axle that took these straight pins, all Mack axles I have seen are tapered.   Terry:MackLogo:

  • Like 2
3 hours ago, terry said:

I had an older DM with a Rockwell axle that took these straight pins, all Mack axles I have seen are tapered.   Terry:MackLogo:

Maybe it is an off breed axle.   Never specified as such on the build sheet and everything else is Mack so I had just assumed Mack.   But yes, all my other Macks have Mack looking axles, this one is different.  Also heavier. 

  • Like 1

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