blackdog2 Posted June 22 Share Posted June 22 I've used a big C-clamp with a plate 3X3 and pop them out probably done 50-set's and a big hammer tapper ? 1 Quote Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted June 22 Share Posted June 22 no need to take the front end apart.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 (edited) Turns out mine are not tapered. Is that a bad thing? Here is a pic of what my new kit looks like. Looks straight forward. But I guess i'll soon find out. Will be starting this job in the morning. https://www.meritorpartsxpress.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/en/meritor-na/r200168 Edited July 5 by Full Floater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 No it's not a bad thing, or I don't think it is anyway These can take lot of pushing to shift, or they can take virtually nothing and just slip right out Unfortunately I find they normally take a lot to get moving I also need to use a adjustable reamer on the bushes once I have pushed them, they shrink a bit pushing them in They ream out easily, so just take baby size cuts, I can normally turn the reamer by hand as I wind it thru I also muck about a bit getting as much shim in as possible between the stub axle and the axle beam, I figure least amount of movement makes for the neatest fit and best driving pattern Run a drill bit thru the grease nipple (zerk) holes thru the bush, really make sure this is deburred spotlessly inside the bush and the double wound spirral groove is lined up and in the correct position on the bush and the hole, all bronze bush type of king pins I have done have a double spiral grease groove, yours maybe different I wouldn't want to go to all this effort and not be able to grease them Good luck with it all Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 3 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said: No it's not a bad thing, or I don't think it is anyway These can take lot of pushing to shift, or they can take virtually nothing and just slip right out Unfortunately I find they normally take a lot to get moving I also need to use a adjustable reamer on the bushes once I have pushed them, they shrink a bit pushing them in They ream out easily, so just take baby size cuts, I can normally turn the reamer by hand as I wind it thru I also muck about a bit getting as much shim in as possible between the stub axle and the axle beam, I figure least amount of movement makes for the neatest fit and best driving pattern Run a drill bit thru the grease nipple (zerk) holes thru the bush, really make sure this is deburred spotlessly inside the bush and the double wound spirral groove is lined up and in the correct position on the bush and the hole, all bronze bush type of king pins I have done have a double spiral grease groove, yours maybe different I wouldn't want to go to all this effort and not be able to grease them Good luck with it all Paul Thank you very much for the detailed reply. As for reaming the bushings? Are we talking the ones that appear to by nylon/plastic in this particular kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 The nylon ones should not need reaming, just deburr the end you pressed them in on. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Do you have the locking pins in the center of the axle beam? There will be a nut on one end, and just a slightly round end on the other end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 As Joey says, if they are nylon (I have only done one set of these) they (king pins) push right in with out reaming In my limited experience only bronze bushes need to be reamed Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Paul sir,, you speak the truth. My question about this is the king pins are straight... I didnt think Mack used straight pins on his model.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 5 hours ago, Joey Mack said: Do you have the locking pins in the center of the axle beam? There will be a nut on one end, and just a slightly round end on the other end. They have the 2 "draw keys" which are tapered at one end. That I would assume get pounded out and in. That act as a key way into the 2 slots on the king pin. Is that what you mean? There is no nut of any kind on mine, far as I can see so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Yes those pins, and yes, when they knock out the pin is now ready to remove. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Im still trying to remember a Mack with those king pins, because i remember using feel gauges to set the clearence at the top of the axle beam. That is what the round shim pack is for... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted July 5 Author Share Posted July 5 10 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: Im still trying to remember a Mack with those king pins, because i remember using feel gauges to set the clearence at the top of the axle beam. That is what the round shim pack is for... Seems like my other 4 Macks (all lighter spec axles) have a different style of front knuckle/king pin design. Probably the tapered style. Maybe this style is more specific to the heavier spec axles? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Quite honestly I would consider a stenco king pin kit a breaze to install once the pins are all out! Looks like an eaton or spicer axle you have there! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Yes.. i have used many of them on freightliners. Keyser is a brand i have used 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Full Floater Posted July 6 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 6 The new king pin set is now installed. Took me all day, but i don't care. The tool that I was interested in buying would have been useless for this job. The pins and the draw keys all pounded out just fine. I drilled out one of the draw keys as it was seized. The new pins went in fine, just a little bit of a chore to line everything up. I managed to get 1 extra shim in place over what was in there, just 1. Thanks for the suggestion Paul. The brass bushings that were in there, pounded out just fine once I got a bite on them. The new split poly or whatever they are bushings, went in like nothing. The grease holes lined up but I drilled them out anyways. All is good. Again, many thanks for all the tips and tricks gents. This is the kind of support that keeps these old trucks rolling for years to come! 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 Now that's a result As a young fella not even 20 years of age, I tackled my first set of king pins, on my own, with no knowledge and all the wrong tools I got it done, but it was a much bigger job than I ever thought However, even today with few sets changed under my belt, it is a full day on my own, so I reckon you did okay Grear result Big truck shops out here give the truck a wheel alignment after doing a set, I dunno if it's really needed if it was tracking okay before you did the job then I reckon they track the same afterwards Maybe something to think about Great result Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 20 hours ago, Full Floater said: Seems like my other 4 Macks (all lighter spec axles) have a different style of front knuckle/king pin design. Probably the tapered style. Maybe this style is more specific to the heavier spec axles? I had an older DM with a Rockwell axle that took these straight pins, all Mack axles I have seen are tapered. Terry 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 6 Share Posted July 6 that makes sense Terry, he did say Meritor at one point. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Full Floater Posted July 6 Author Share Posted July 6 3 hours ago, terry said: I had an older DM with a Rockwell axle that took these straight pins, all Mack axles I have seen are tapered. Terry Maybe it is an off breed axle. Never specified as such on the build sheet and everything else is Mack so I had just assumed Mack. But yes, all my other Macks have Mack looking axles, this one is different. Also heavier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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