Joey Mack Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 https://photos.app.goo.gl/rkuH9RtMR3oyu3ZM9 Here, try this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieselsmoke138 Posted July 30 Author Share Posted July 30 That worked. Let me look at mine in am as off the top of my head they look different. Mine are slick and the insert is on the inside I do believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 ok, bud.. I hope I have the right ones, mine came out of an ENDT 2 valve. I dont know if they crossover either.. hopefully they will work. Mechohaulic, FJH, MarkT, and GW, and so-on,,, will know.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 1 hour ago, Dieselsmoke138 said: I couldn't open picture. I will check my number in the am your not alone; I tried ;; went to a G mail sign in something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 go to the last page mech.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 31 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: ok, bud.. I hope I have the right ones, mine came out of an ENDT 2 valve. I dont know if they crossover either.. hopefully they will work. Mechohaulic, FJH, MarkT, and GW, and so-on,,, will know.. question is ::: are all rods the same ==intake /exhaust ?? does it have the dynatard brake which back in the day changed over to solid on exhaust ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 Mech... go back a few posts and click on the new link I posted.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: go to the last page mech.. got picture this time . I'd say it's a go. those look heavier duty . has to be an update/change-over since my flintstone days. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 sweet, When he says they are good, I will ship them to him.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 those are out of an END 673 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 22 hours ago, Lmackattack said: Yep I just pulled my 2v heads off about a month ago. Replaced the head gaskets and cleaned up the mating surfaces. Total cost was less than $100 in parts. Great help from people here. hope we get to see total picture of your lifting system! over head crane seems to be an understatement. if you are going to reinstall those heads based on picture, my recommendation is to pull ALL the studs first. or make dam sure those head stud holes are spotless. during the jiggle=jaggle of the heads being lowered ANY grit/crap in those holes reaches those new head gaskets from those studs scraping bore before the heads seat in place. also the studs are supposed to be brought snug then backed off a tad. I used from toolbox set of wire wheeled /clean studs for such operations. which were removed once all engine studs were in place . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 16 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: those are out of an END 673 as a search for knowledge ;; original post states 81 mack; based on picture of heads which seem to be gold in color; assumption is this is a 1981 Mack , not a B-81 dump ?? racking brain cells trying to remember :: END 673 push rods lighter internally (thinner walls) then what could be a 1981 TURBO engine ENDT ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 yes.. my pushrods are 20 years older than his, however, will they work?? I dont know, I dont have an E-6 (2V), here to compare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 so we are in agreement this engine is a 1981. picture you posted Jojo push rods seem HD compared to older spot welded ends. his aren't any good ' what if he sends his to you for comparing. ??? yours will work for him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 not a bad idea.. I will send my adress to him now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 9 hours ago, Dieselsmoke138 said: I doesn't leak much air will hold 30-60 lbs over night but it pukes alot of oil. I plan on going thru everything while I have it down. Just got injectors pulled out of the head...will prob have the heads cleaned up and new seals. I found a shop that can cut the rings if needed but are a month out. A week just to clean them up but I figure will take close tp that for everything else. Plan on pulling the pump and having it gone thru.... Debating doing lower end as had some blow by drips....but haven't decided. Joey I may hit you up for a pair. I had to add it to this post as I have reached my max post for the day apparently...lol We put a "reman" compressor in our 1979 endt676, pukes just as much oil as the old compressor did. Run it or rebuild it yourself. Don't put a "reman" compressor in. Not worth the money. Also, modern engines pull their compressor intake air from the boosted intake manifold. Builds air faster. On engine pistons there's a science behind combustion pressures wedging the piston rings against cylinder walls harder, creating better seal. Similar could apply to compressor rings as well, might get better seal/less oil puke if your compressor is getting boosted air. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 20 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: yes.. my pushrods are 20 years older than his, however, will they work?? I dont know, I dont have an E-6 (2V), here to compare. well I can almost guarantee my pushrod is 20 yrs older then his also the bent in it would help either. just sayin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 13 minutes ago, mechohaulic said: so we are in agreement this engine is a 1981. picture you posted Jojo push rods seem HD compared to older spot welded ends. his aren't any good ' what if he sends his to you for comparing. ??? yours will work for him see a clarification on truck/ engine.. the profile shows two 1981 trucks ; R-600 and R700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lmackattack Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 39 minutes ago, mechohaulic said: hope we get to see total picture of your lifting system! over head crane seems to be an understatement. if you are going to reinstall those heads based on picture, my recommendation is to pull ALL the studs first. or make dam sure those head stud holes are spotless. during the jiggle=jaggle of the heads being lowered ANY grit/crap in those holes reaches those new head gaskets from those studs scraping bore before the heads seat in place. also the studs are supposed to be brought snug then backed off a tad. I used from toolbox set of wire wheeled /clean studs for such operations. which were removed once all engine studs were in place . I used a service truck crane. To remove and replace the heads as 1 assembly. Made life very easy Yes, I wire brushed all stud holes in the head. Pressure washed them and blow dry. All the stud holes in block were wire brushed and blown out after I cleaned the deck surface. All studs were wire brushed. Lowered heads on with 4 studs used as guides until the dowl pins located them. Then I put all studs in hand tight and backed off 1/2 turn. All studs were same hight. Bolted down so far so 👍 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 Lmackattack, did you look at the picture of my pushrods? Curious if they are the same as your tip turbine engine. I want to send them to him if they will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechohaulic Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 1 minute ago, Lmackattack said: I used a service truck crane. To remove and replace the heads as 1 assembly. Made life very easy Yes, I wire brushed all stud holes in the head. Pressure washed them and blow dry. All the stud holes in block were wire brushed and blown out after I cleaned the deck surface. All studs were wire brushed. Lowered heads on with 4 studs used as guides until the dowl pins located them. Then I put all studs in hand tight and backed off 1/2 turn. All studs were same hight. Bolted down so far so 👍 takes a minute longer but doing job the right way makes a difference later. have done the two heads as one assembly also. each project has it's own particulars ; equipment/ set up make a major difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dieselsmoke138 Posted July 31 Author Share Posted July 31 52 minutes ago, mechohaulic said: see a clarification on truck/ engine.. the profile shows two 1981 trucks ; R-600 and R700 Yes the engine I am working on is in an 81 r686. Engine shows 1980 build date. I am going to get with Joey in the am when I get back to the shop. The R700 has a big cam 290....its a project at this point. I pulled the eaton 13sp out of it and put in the R686. The R700 has like 6.14 gears on a 46k walking beam. Those axles are coming out to go under a work over rig with an auto. Gonna find a set of 44k camel back and and heavier 13sp. The Big cam needs some work so it will come back as a 400. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 (edited) 1 hour ago, JoeH said: We put a "reman" compressor in our 1979 endt676, pukes just as much oil as the old compressor did. Run it or rebuild it yourself. Don't put a "reman" compressor in. Not worth the money. Also, modern engines pull their compressor intake air from the boosted intake manifold. Builds air faster. On engine pistons there's a science behind combustion pressures wedging the piston rings against cylinder walls harder, creating better seal. Similar could apply to compressor rings as well, might get better seal/less oil puke if your compressor is getting boosted air. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwi_gpvfmNCHAxVmmIkEHcRiNmcQFnoECCAQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bendixvrc.com%2FitemDisplay.asp%3FdocumentID%3D7117&usg=AOvVaw3KGYmvyJKDfP8-cMomQB61&opi=89978449 This is Bendix's trouble shooting for compressors. I find that compressors get blamed when other things are causing excessive duty cycle. 15%-to 25% MAX duty cycle. One of the 1st things they mention is excessive air use/excessive duty cycle for any slobber issue. If you replace the compressor but the air use and/or duty cycle remains high, it will not matter new, rebuilt or the one you started with, they will all slobber oil. I didn't have trouble, and didn't need to change compressors for slobber, I had to change one for a loose main bearing on a 3406 Cat (front bushing for compressor crankshaft was loose.) attached is another Bendix .pdf on oil slobber TCH-001-045a.pdf Edited July 31 by Geoff Weeks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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