Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello I have a 2013 mru 613 with T310 10 speed tranny. Couple times a time I cannot get it to switch to low gears. When I stop sometime I toggle gear switch up and down then I can. Other times no luck and I take off in 6 gear. I replaced hi/lo valve thinking maybe internal leak but no change. Also new oil, check for air leaks nothing . Does this sound like an internal problem. Any help would be really appreciated 

Link to comment
https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74427-no-low-gears-intermittent/
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, mcratchet1 said:

Hello I have a 2013 mru 613 with T310 10 speed tranny. Couple times a time I cannot get it to switch to low gears. When I stop sometime I toggle gear switch up and down then I can. Other times no luck and I take off in 6 gear. I replaced hi/lo valve thinking maybe internal leak but no change. Also new oil, check for air leaks nothing . Does this sound like an internal problem. Any help would be really appreciated 

Try leaving it in gear and pulling the range shift before you move the stick!

As far as the range shifter, remove the back cover from it, you will see a 2 peice piston. All is sealed with o-rings, the piston nut can loosen over time. If you need new pistons, PAI has a good low cost product.  Use seal glide or equivelant on the o-rings when you go back together.

  • Like 1

Sounds like it needs to be taken out and repaired ( synchro and range cylinder components in the transmission ).  Keep start'n out in sixth ??? you'll be taking the transmission out anyway  to replace the clutch.  Like F and Joey mentioned, those items can be the issue, but if it is and you're seeing issues, probably after repairing those you'll be wondering why it won't stay in low range and keeps clunk'n in and out.

I was thinking about that Mark,,  I assume that most who post are mechanics.  Obviously in a shop on a concrete floor with the right tranny jack and something to support the engine when the tranny is pulled, then able to tip the tranny on its bell housing, would be the way to go.  It is am MR chassis which makes it easier and an hour or so shorter of a removal job, that is what I would do after my trials that I do first..  Of course I have pulled ,  many,, transmissions, so for me it would be routine.. 

I get it Mark...  weak points for sure..  they do fail early relatively speaking,,  It hurts my heart, because of my love of the Mack Truck's. its easy for me to say that if you own this set up and have a mechanic brain, you can maintain it and prolong the failure interval..  Still the best Trucks in the dirt.. !! Hands down..

1 minute ago, fjh said:

Yup I agree how ever never had to work one! Just experience working on! And my experience tells me I would have a fuller over a Mack 18 any day of the week!If I was ever to own a truck!

 

IDK.  If you ask me , Mack hung on way too long to the belief people knew what to do with extended range transmissions and multiple PTO options.  Fuller was by far more driver and maintainence friendly, and in most applications did a fine job.  It makes me sad they're all going the same direciton as injection pumps and two sticks.   Oh..... and a pipe from a turbo that went to a muffler.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Yes guys, I worked them both in the dirt..  Eaton is better, and easier to do a synchro repair..  fixed many of them,  I could do an eaton repair in 1 shift at the shop, from first test drive, to last test drive..  ( of course parts were in the parts room back then)  .. I still have my shop made jig in my shop here.. it held many Eaton back boxes.. and a few Meritors too..  :) 

  • Like 1
  • Like 1

Just to clarify the cover we’re talking about removing is on the back side above yoke? Four bolts to remove, I tried to pull that one off but does not want to move back. Didn’t want to try to pry it off. Never removed that one before is it ok to tap it back with a rubber mallet?

IMG_7449.jpeg

NO    that's your range cylinder. F's 13 he's talking about is under the cover on the top of the transmission

 

and the bolt on the yolk is the one in front of the universal joint   it'll be below your picture and  it's like inch and five sixteenths 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...