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I’ve got a 2004 Mack Granite CV713 with the E-7 AI-350 engine. All of the sudden I have encountered an oil leak from the turbo return line. I have replaced the round o-ring gasket with a brand new one which did not fix it. You can wash all the oil off and let it idle and not a drop, but once driven the passenger side will get covered again. No restrictions. Breather is clear.. 

  • 6 months later...
On 8/8/2024 at 8:56 PM, fjh said:

This is likely a turbo issue ! The turbo shaft seal is letting exhaust gases by and pressure into the crank case!

When the turbo is working, it leaks. Not when idling. 

Dont replace the turbo... That is a common leak. Take the metal tube off and look inside the return elbow on the block. There may be crusty o-ring stuck in there, it also looks warped. Clean the o-ring groove in the tube, and dry out the elbow with brake clean on a rag. You will need a new o-ring, and upper football gasket before you get started.  I have had to use a good RTV on the o-ring, due to damage inside the elbow.. 

  • Like 1
20 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Dont replace the turbo... That is a common leak. Take the metal tube off and look inside the return elbow on the block. There may be crusty o-ring stuck in there, it also looks warped. Clean the o-ring groove in the tube, and dry out the elbow with brake clean on a rag. You will need a new o-ring, and upper football gasket before you get started.  I have had to use a good RTV on the o-ring, due to damage inside the elbow.. 

Back in August when this post was made I ended up taking everything apart and did as you said, made sure everything was clean and no restrictions, I double gasketed it even and hit it with rtv. Still leaking. But not bad. Even through the RTV and over the second gasket. These were not oem gaskets from Mack. So I figured I’d pick up an oem gasket this weekend and I repeated all the steps with cleaning and making sure everything everything was clear this time I went back with a single gasket in the groove and used a better RTV to re seal the elbow going to the block and I did not use RTV on the gasket and now it’s leaking worse than before getting oil even on my fuel tanks on the passenger side

31 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Dont replace the turbo... That is a common leak. Take the metal tube off and look inside the return elbow on the block. There may be crusty o-ring stuck in there, it also looks warped. Clean the o-ring groove in the tube, and dry out the elbow with brake clean on a rag. You will need a new o-ring, and upper football gasket before you get started.  I have had to use a good RTV on the o-ring, due to damage inside the elbow.. 

I am also losing oil out from the engine position sensor at the bottom on the same side of the motor

What sensor is leaking? The engine position sensor is in the front cover near the overboard breather filter..

Just now, Joey Mack said:

What sensor is leaking? The engine position sensor is in the front cover near the overboard breather filter..

Yes. Correct. Oil is seeping from the engine position sensor. I will post a picture as well.

25 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

What sensor is leaking? The engine position sensor is in the front cover near the overboard breather filter..

Absolutely insane now

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Dont replace the turbo... That is a common leak. Take the metal tube off and look inside the return elbow on the block. There may be crusty o-ring stuck in there, it also looks warped. Clean the o-ring groove in the tube, and dry out the elbow with brake clean on a rag. You will need a new o-ring, and upper football gasket before you get started.  I have had to use a good RTV on the o-ring, due to damage inside the elbow.. 

Agree with this ! Try this first also!  tighten the tube to the turbo first install and loosely tighten the tube to the block let it find its own center then tighten it! I also suggest using an extra oring above the captured oring  and filling the top with scone BUT you need to let the silicone SET Do it on a day when the engine does not have to run! If it fails again the you may want to try a turbo! 

  • Like 1
1 minute ago, fjh said:

Ooooh ugly ! Well I think thats a turbo issue how ever you need to try all the cheap and easy stuff! ! Are you seeing any blow by ?

 

2 minutes ago, fjh said:

Ooooh ugly ! Well I think thats a turbo issue how ever you need to try all the cheap and easy stuff! ! Are you seeing any blow by ?

It’s got little pressure 

21 minutes ago, RollOffKing270 said:

 

It’s got little pressure 

I'd not condemn anything without more positive diagnosing. Could be a turbo, could be a cracked piston.

Pull the inlet to the turbo and see how much radial play and axial play there is. It could be ok and still leak pressure through, but if bad, then you need to replace.

Cyl leak down test will show a cracked piston.

  • Like 1
  • Like 1
27 minutes ago, RollOffKing270 said:

 

It’s got little pressure 

Is it steady or is it puffing!? I have also seen valve guides do this However you said this came on all of a sudden so kind of rules that out! 

2 minutes ago, fjh said:

Bro end play or not I've seen these fail they can feel fine yet leak exhast gasses under load!

Just sayin!

IF you have a ton of play, leaking or not, the turbo needs to be changed, if you don't have a ton of play, it is less likely the culprit, but yes I agree in rare cases it still could be leaking. The back side (shaft side) of the compressor wheel also sees full boost pressure, so can leak from either side.

It appears the new OEM gasket severed in half. How should I install the two tubes going back? So this doesn’t happen again! Return oil tube from the turbo first? And than the tube going to the block? I’m going to run two gaskets and high temp permatex rtv. Hopefully it stops it

image.jpg

tighten the tube to the turbo first install and loosely  gotighten the tube to the block let it find its own center then tighten it! I also suggest using an extra oring above the captured oring  and filling the top with scone BUT you needto let the silicone SET Do it on a day when the engine does not have to run! The idea here is you want everything to find it’s natural position!

22 minutes ago, fjh said:

tighten the tube to the turbo first install and loosely  gotighten the tube to the block let it find its own center then tighten it! I also suggest using an extra oring above the captured oring  and filling the top with scone BUT you needto let the silicone SET Do it on a day when the engine does not have to run! The idea here is you want everything to find it’s natural position!

16 hours long enough to dry? Should be 

  • Like 2

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