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https://wattstruckcenter.com/shop/heater-ac-unit-for-r-rw-cabs?search=heater

 

Has anyone run these?  I'm looking at upgrading my factory 70's R heater in one way or another.  I was thinking of either installing an aux heater somewhere, or installing this box.   Does anyone know if the heater output is greater than the stock units?   I don't run a/c, its strictly the heater that im after.

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5 hours ago, 67RModel said:

Well that looks like an identical reproduction to what is in my 94 RD and it will boil me in there if I need it too. Usually have to have the window rolled down a few inches if its on.

This is the kind of stuff I was hoping to hear.   My heaters in my trucks (all 70's vintage) are sub par at best.   For both heat and blower force.

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39 minutes ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I dunno how good they are, I imported one to Australia a couple of years (maybe 5 if I think about it) for the AC

The R model cab really boils me alive, but to this day it is all in boxes waiting for me to get my priorities right

I read about on here that these provided the best in cab cooling for a factory fitted style look

Now convert that price to Aussie dollars, then add a couple of gorillas for freight

And think I have to cut it appart and change it all to make it RHD, I really am a idiot

Just as well the Princess doesn't read this forum 😉

A good mate of mine and myself argue argue about which of us is the bigger idiot

His wife reckons we are such idiots she made us tee shirts

IIdiot "I" and idiot "II"

Australia day a few years ago

20240810_071047.thumb.jpg.05b3a9db6013c58501faf6cd94e6c782.jpg

 

Paul

 

HAHAHAHAHAH

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3 hours ago, mowerman said:

Your heater core might be blocked full of leaves or maybe coolant is blowing through it for some reason.. at any rate, it wouldn’t hurt to just switch it out and I said good luck bob

The cowl vent makes next to no difference in air flow in my trucks..   I've had the boxes apart and confirmed no blockages or debris.  The heater does fine, until maybe 10 below Celsius.   Just looking for something better as I do spend a good portion of the year below those temps 

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when it is cold outside and the heater is not preforming well, grab the inlet and outlet pipes, if one is cool and the other hot, the core is plugged and needs to be replaced. They both should be about the same temperature.   Also, if used the water control valve can reduce flow, make sure it has good flow in the circuit.

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1 hour ago, Geoff Weeks said:

when it is cold outside and the heater is not preforming well, grab the inlet and outlet pipes, if one is cool and the other hot, the core is plugged and needs to be replaced. They both should be about the same temperature.   Also, if used the water control valve can reduce flow, make sure it has good flow in the circuit.

Both pipes are hot.  The engine also will run up to operating temps no problem.   The blower motor is good.   Just need more during the colder times, of both heat and blower volume.   R model defrost vents are not the best to begin with, so the far reaches of the windshield always fog up etc.

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almost sound like the the door is suck half way between,,,,i drove a ford cabover,,a short time back in the 70s,,,blower sounded like a turbine,,but hardly anything blowing in,,,i was freezing,,,so i get it,,,and yes,,thats the worse not enough heat!!!!!!!!! bob

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A good thought there, I was working on my IH farm tractor AC and put the drums of the fan on backwards 

I know, what a dick

The fan shifted air, not a huge amount though, and was loud to boot

Put the drums on the correct way and it was a changed tractor 

 

Paul

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