Pitman arm and drag link help!

[Supahonky]

I’ve got a 1989 r688st and just failed safety inspection because the drag link has too much slop. I’ve only been able to the tierod style end but not the socket end. No one has one or plans on making one anytime soon. Someone suggested I update the pitman/drag link to the tierod style end. 
 

Had anyone done this yet and have some part numbers? Or have an extra socket end laying around?

[glenbjackson]

have you tried cleaning it then adjusting and tightening the cap to take up the wear and lastly greasing it???

[Vladislav]

As said above. That's a plug nut in the end of the rod secured by a cotter pin. Remove it and try turning the nut clockwise. You need a kind of still plate to insert into the recess in the nut to turn it. Pretty easy deal at all if the nut isn't stuck really hard due to rust.

And probably no simple way to install a "tie rod style" drag link as you called it. You need another Pitman arm with a conical hole to suit the ball stud. And I doubt it even existed for this style of the steering box. Might be though.

[Supahonky]

I am new to this, so the cap is adjustable? If that’s the case then that should fix my issue once I get the other end. How much play should I leave in it?

[mechohaulic]

a piece of 1/4 x 1or 1 1/4 flat stock and an adjustable wrench work well for removing the end cap.  there is a HD spring inside the end. NOT a lot of tension, just heavy coil. I would remove end cap, turn steering enough to remove pitman arm the spring is behind ball cap. Have seen the spring break causing excessive "play/slop".  parts should be ::1- end cap = 2 ball end caps = 1 spring. nothing broke then clean everything and reinstall. torque/ tension on end cap is ??? . tight enough it won't fall out BUT not that tight steering binds.  broken spring then === search for new.

[Brocky]

Craftsman and Snap On used to make a 1/2 drive screw driver blade to just this purpose that Mechohaulic described you making/building..

[mrsmackpaul]

Everything mentioned above

Forget trying to buy a new one

Should be able to get the seperate parts for inside

Some times the ball and tapered cone in the pitman arm gets a groove worn in it

This ball can be replaced with one with a nut on the pitman arm instead of it been riveted over

Pull split pin out, unscrew the cap, and drop it all apart, clean everything up, check for busted spring and badly worn parts

Replace parts as needed,  re assemble 

America is different than the rest of the world, everyone goes to the local spare parts place with a vin number

Go to a place that wrecks trucks with the parts in your hands and some tools and wander about looking for what you need 

I enjoy wandering about the history as much as finding a part

 

Paul

[Supahonky]

Thanks guys, I’ve tried to find “junk” yards near by that have r models but haven’t had much luck. Is there a source for getting the parts inside the socket that connects to the pitman arm?

[Joey Mack]

I say, never mind trying to by parts... take it apart first, clean the grease out and the threads of any rust and grit. if nothing shows dramatic wear, and if the spring is not compressed or broken,  screw it back to gather, I bet it will tighten up then grease it...  Guys,,  what say you?? Jojo

Edited August 16 by Joey Mack
I'm A DumbA$$

[mrsmackpaul]

Well Joey

 

I'm not Mech but I 100% agree with what your saying

 

Paul

[Joey Mack]

Thanks Paul, I was just thinking about fixin' my post..  I know that there are many with the knowledge on these pitman arm's..    Please forgive me?? 

[Supahonky]

Thanks for the great advice y’all , I’ll strip her down and give it the treatment. 

[Joey Mack]

There ya' Go!!

[mechohaulic]

3 hours ago, Supahonky said:

Thanks guys, I’ve tried to find “junk” yards near by that have r models but haven’t had much luck. Is there a source for getting the parts inside the socket that connects to the pitman arm?

also keep in mind :: proper replacement parts  DO NOT have to come from an R model only.

[mechohaulic]

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

I say, never mind trying to by parts... take it apart first, clean the grease out and the threads of any rust and grit. if nothing shows dramatic wear, and if the spring is not compressed or broken,  screw it back to gather, I bet it will tighten up then grease it...  Guys,,  what say you?? Jojo

not understanding the "dumb ass part ??? seems to me your advice is correct. disassemble / clean/ inspect/ reinstall if nothing worn or broke.

[mechohaulic]

4 hours ago, Brocky said:

Craftsman and Snap On used to make a 1/2 drive screw driver blade to just this purpose that Mechohaulic described you making/building..

I had/have a 3/4 drive which was used many times. for a possible one time repair " flat stock also works.

[Joey Mack]

Mech... you missed what I posted first..  

[Joey Mack]

after using bent flat stock for these and king pins... I bought the sockets..  when you have to get it doen you make it happen...  

[mechohaulic]

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

Mech... you missed what I posted first..  

be great if that was the ONLY thing I missed in life  just sayin. LOL

[Joey Mack]

Mech... I called for you on this..  Paul posted,, look back, youll see..  at the same time I said to ME,, dumba$$ 20 guys here know about this....  I was doing damage control..   

[mechohaulic]

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

after using bent flat stock for these and king pins... I bought the sockets..  when you have to get it doen you make it happen...  

proper tools are always the best road to take ; if the usage can justify the cost, which you can due to more then one time use. this case a 1/2 or 3/4 drive socket for one time use could be $$$

[mechohaulic]

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

Mech... I called for you on this..  Paul posted,, look back, youll see..  at the same time I said to ME,, dumba$$ 20 guys here know about this....  I was doing damage control..   

we know; you were doing another test to see who's paying attention !!LOL

[Joey Mack]

I guess after 20+ years working hard on Mack's and having to get them back to work...   I woulld work extra hard to make a tool in a jiffy to get the job done..  Nothing ''hack'' about that..  

[mechohaulic]

1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

I guess after 20+ years working hard on Mack's and having to get them back to work...   I woulld work extra hard to make a tool in a jiffy to get the job done..  Nothing ''hack'' about that..  

middle of the night ; side of the road pouring rain or snow it's amazing the ideas a person can come up with to "get er done" ; especially a broken pitman arm {back on topic }

[mrsmackpaul]

I use a wood chisel and a shifter (adjustable wrench in America)

 

Paul