Spring saddles

[vinny933]

Spring guy said saddles  wore out he put cheap aftermarket ones on and they are worse then before.  I had enough  and went to mack and got oem. They don't the ears at the end , what would  be the difference.  Blurry picture  is the week old saddle  moving.  Even after being  tightened by a multimeter  gun

[Joey Mack]

Round is correct. I think that until you get a transverse torque arm in the rear rear, this will be an on going issue..

[The Heinz]

The dealer ought to be able to start an eService case about installing a transverse torque rod. Have them go that route, get a parts list, and see what you can do. It sounds like you need to avoid and ignore that Spring Guy, doesn't sound like he has much when it comes to brains. 

[Joey Mack]

Im curious what E-Service will do with an out of warranty truck?  

[The Heinz]

In my experience, they would give you a VIN or part numbers themselves (if you're lucky) to make an estimate with. We've done the same for truck sales and general changes quite a bit outside of warranty. 

[terry]

3 hours ago, vinny933 said:

Could they be using  the wrong u bolts round  instead of flat, mack gave me a parts breakdown list I'm gonna check  when I get home . Doesn't  seem to fit tight on the top

I believe that is what they call semi-round u- bolts.   terry

[vinny933]

I'm just fishing  here I'm at a loss for words, I noticed  they don't lube u bolt threads or washers, 20 years ago use to put never sieze  on them so won't bind

[Joey Mack]

Definitely use antisieze. It allows for proper torque

[Mark T]

Only cheap torque multiplier would be a little 4 to 1.  Only around 1000 pounds. Those have to be tight.  Like did the multiplier guy even attempt to do it with a torque wrench on the multiplier ? 1500 foot pounds it a lot of torque.  You need a multiplier , big bar and back, or a well functioning inch drive impact with lots of air. A little hand job even with a good torque multiplier may not be enough if the guy doesn't know how to use it.

[Mark T]

And yes, lube those threads and contact area of nuts and washers. A little under the U bolt top won't hurt either.   Then retorque after a few miles .

[vinny933]

22 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Only cheap torque multiplier would be a little 4 to 1.  Only around 1000 pounds. Those have to be tight.  Like did the multiplier guy even attempt to do it with a torque wrench on the multiplier ? 1500 foot pounds it a lot of torque.  You need a multiplier , big bar and back, or a well functioning inch drive impact with lots of air. A little hand job even with a good torque multiplier may not be enough if the guy doesn't know how to use it.

He has an air one

[vinny933]

Ok getting  new saddles  put on tomorrow, then heading  straight to mack there gonna  put the transverse torque  bar on and make sure u bolts are tight.

[mechohaulic]

when in doubt' after U-bolts are tighten/torqued ;; a big sledge hammer and a few "taps "to top of U-bolts. Then check torque numbers again , see if a difference. Always never seize threads. if not for later removal = a higher torque valve is a guarantee on lubricated threads,

[terry]

Definitely a couple of hard raps on top of u-bolts after assembly will tighten a little more!   Terry

[mowerman]

Can’t really help out much with this one, but I did like the part about cheap China. Shit that doesn’t fit that’s an ongoing issue. We all have with everything especially aftermarket parts. Hope you get it figured out Taiwan China same thing. Nothing seems to line up. Went through that for years with aftermarket Harley add on parts

[mechohaulic]

after all the conversation about this unit;; sure hope we are given a follow up .. after the install of transverse rod especially.

[fjh]

15 minutes ago, mechohaulic said:

after all the conversation about this unit;; sure hope we are given a follow up .. after the install of transverse rod especially.

Amen 🙏