dek1581 Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 I understand going from 10.00 x 20 to 11r22.5 tire I will need to change old 7.5" rim to 8.25" rim. Also, if I want to go to 12r22.5 for more weight capacity I will need a 9" rim. Can I use the same spokes or did Mack (or Dayton) make different spokes based upon rim size/weight capacity? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 (edited) spokes are the same. the "cleats" on the steer axle may be different for the 9" rim depending on what was used originally. Generally speaking 6 spoke hubs were used where higher axle loads were seen, but unless you are making big changes, you should be fine as axle loading is limited by the axle and brake configuration as well as springs. to go with steer axle loading over 13k-14k you are going to need a whole lot, new axle and suspension duel steering boxes or assist cylinder etc. 9" rims are only a small part of the picture. Edited September 3 by Geoff Weeks Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558036 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 wedges with the long "tail" are needed when using 9" rims, if these are what you have now, you would be fine If they are short like this, you would need to upgrade Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558037 Share on other sites More sharing options...
dek1581 Posted September 3 Author Share Posted September 3 I'm still learning the 'lingo' so when you say 'cleats' did you mean wedges? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558043 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 yes Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558044 Share on other sites More sharing options...
dek1581 Posted September 3 Author Share Posted September 3 Much thanks! Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558045 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark T Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 12/22.5s ? are you talking steer position or drive/trailer duals ? A 12/22.5 will go on an 8.25 / 22.5 wheel, you'll likely need a wider spacer if it's in a dual position. If it's a steer position ? Geoff's right. More to it than just a bigger tire to carry more weight without incident. Might look cool and all, but more weight takes more than a tire swap, unless someone already went backwards trying to save a few bucks on tires on a truck speced heavier. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558046 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 8.25 rims are generally limited to 7K lbs. Spacer is determined by the cast spoke width and not the rims. If wider/rims tires will not allow enough dual spacing than they can't be used. A wider spacer will push the wedges out on the end of the spoke too far making the joint weak. 4 1/4" spacer bands are common and can be used with 9" (tubeless) or 8" tube-type rims. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558050 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 BTW, I wouldn't bother with 12r 22.5's if I wanted to carry more weight. 295/80x 22.5's can carry up to 7800 or more per tire and are the same diameter as a 11rx 22.5 and just a touch wider. They can be mounted on a 8.25 but then only load to the rims max of 7K lbs. On a 9" rim they can carry the full weight. They are handy because they can be used next to a 11x 22.5 in dual applications after the life as a steer tire is done. Very versatile size, but is not the same as a 295/75.22.5 that is a far more common tire. that is smaller diameter than a 11x 22.5 (it is equal to a 10x 22.5 or a 9.x 20 ). Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558051 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 13 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said: wedges with the long "tail" are needed when using 9" rims, if these are what you have now, you would be fine If they are short like this, you would need to upgrade The bottom wedges are pretty much what all R and F models came out with in Australia However, they are prone to breaking studs, most are changed over to the longer wedge A fella I know lost a wheel at walking speed at Emerald in Queensland while turning at a intersection Truck is a series 1 Superliner with a V8 and ended up sitting on a fuel tank This was in the 80's, he changed over to the longer wedges and never had a issue since I still use the smaller wedge and have lost bits here and there I hear it when a stud lets go, it goes off like a gunna, followed by a very wobbly steering wheel The stud comes out pretty easy so far, I'm sure I'll run into trouble one day The smaller wedges are gunite, dunno about the spelling We put 6.5 ton or 14300 pounds on the normal 6 spoke axle, dunno how that compares to other countries Paul 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558061 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeH Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 If you need weight capacity/more surface contact to the ground you can run 315 dualies on 9"x22.5" rims. Tires rated usually from 8600 lbs to 10,000 lbs. 9"x22.5" rims are rated for 10,000 lbs, 8.25" rims are rated for 7500 lbs. I have a former trash truck now Volumetric Concrete Mixer that has 315's on the drives and lift, and I put 425's on the steering axle (rated around 12,000 lbs). Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558063 Share on other sites More sharing options...
67RModel Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 14 minutes ago, JoeH said: 9"x22.5" rims. Demountable / Dayton 9x22.5s are getting extremely hard to find and expensive. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558064 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 1 hour ago, mrsmackpaul said: The bottom wedges are pretty much what all R and F models came out with in Australia However, they are prone to breaking studs, most are changed over to the longer wedge Paul That is why I said to change to the longer ones, Not all front hubs can use them, and some take a different design. Putting 20K on an axle/brake/suspension designed for 12 K is dumb and a good DOT man that know his job will red-line a truck caring more weight on the steers than components are rated for. That said, having a little excess capacity in the front means never loading everything to the max all the time. While the axle isn't likely to break with a few extra lbs the brakes on heavier axles are 16.5 instead of 15 and can be wider depending on the axle. Then there is the tie rod that hs to turn the bigger tire contact area, one designed for 10.00x 20 tire contact turning "floaters" is subject to failure. If Glenn was still with us I would suggest you ask him about cracked steering arms on the front knuckles. He had some stories tell about that. Doing mild "heavy haul" with my trucks, that from the get go had 12K on the steer bobtail, I upped the springs and wheels/tires, more because when turning a big load, the steer would tend to "plow" and the rig go straight. I could drop a bit of air off the pusher axle and load the steer to 14K or so for the turn, then re-set for running down the road. If I was going to load all the time, I would have replaced with 18-20K axle, brake and suspension, along with twin steering boxes or an assist ram on the passengers side. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558065 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swishy Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 Bit of Tire/Tyre/ wheel info take it or leave it Cya 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74525-converting-from-tube-to-tubeless-tires/#findComment-558152 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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