Draggin8 Posted September 19 Share Posted September 19 I've recently driven my 1959 H653LT for the first time. Runs great - drives "OK" but needs front-end alignment. I've checked "toe-in" and found it actually has about 0.5" toe-out. Rotating the tie-rod with a pipe wrench seems to just move the tie-rod left or right - but doesn't change the toe-in as I'd thought it would. So, looks like I'll need to disconnect one of the ball-joints from the tie-rod to make the adjustment. To remove the ball joint, I've been told to just hit it from various angles with a 4-lb hammer, and it will drop out. I'm reluctant to do that without knowing a little more about it. In the picture below, there's a hole in the steering knuckle adjacent to the ball joint's tapered shaft. I'm concerned that there might be a roll-pin or some other sort of "keeper" there that must be removed before the shaft can come out! I'll really appreciate an answer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjc transport Posted September 19 Share Posted September 19 Adjusting a tie rod usually only moves that wheel. You was toe to be about 1/16 to 1/8 in. Quote when you are up to your armpits in alligators, it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted September 20 Share Posted September 20 They call that a castle nut, supposed to have a cotter pin when castle nut aligns up with the hole on the knuckle. Terry 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draggin8 Posted September 21 Author Share Posted September 21 Thanks, Terry - I get that about the castle nut. But I'm talking about the hole in the steering knuckle itself. Anyway, a local ATHS friend said "don't worry about it" there's nothing in that hole that will prevent the shaft from coming out of the knuckle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Joey Mack Posted September 21 Solution Share Posted September 21 there are NO pins just loosen the castle nut and strike the end of the steering arm and it will fall out, leave the nut on a turn or 2 so it dont hit the ground..it may take a few strikes, but she'll come... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryS Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 If the tie rod end only moves when turning the tie rod and not the wheel could be a worn out ball joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draggin8 Posted September 21 Author Share Posted September 21 Thanks for all the suggestions. You guys are great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 I assume you got it to break loose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Draggin8 Posted September 22 Author Share Posted September 22 Yes! Eventually. But not without help (Credit where credit is due!) : Heavy-duty ball joint tool from Harbor Freight, propane torch, CRC Freeze-Off. I had to grind out the opening in the ball joint tool - it was about 1/8-inch too narrow. Applied the tool and cranked it down hard. Heated steering knuckle with the torch. Applied Freeze-Off to the stud for about 30-seconds. And ... BAM! ... it let go! Glad I'd planned for success (!) by placing a wood block and cushion underneath. Anyway, thanks again. You guys 'had my back'. I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted September 22 Share Posted September 22 good call on the landing zone... 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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