skydawg Posted September 20 Share Posted September 20 How the heck do you get to that hidden top bolt to take out the starter?I`m guessing it`s bad.I can hear the drive gear hitting the flywheel when I push the start button,but no cranking.Batteries are fully charged,cable connections are clean and tight.I have (4) 6 volt batteries feeding a 12 volt starter.It`s worked great for the 2 yrs I`ve owned the truck,a1961 B61.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70mackMB Posted September 20 Share Posted September 20 skydawg, The connections are clean and tight but are the cables good? l once had a cable that went from battery to battery that was no good. lt wasn't till after changing four batteries, starter, alternator, and letting it run all week. Then we found it was only an eight inch cable that was junk. We used a set of jumper cables, one at a time, on the battery cables till it started on it's own. .....Hippy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb73lt Posted September 20 Share Posted September 20 What position is your starter on the bell housing? There's a lower right, down on the passenger side. Also, upper left on the driver's side, between the block and steering column. Mine is on the upper left, which I think is the harder location. I bent up a spare 5/8" wrench to reach it from the inside of the cab after removing the floor boards to access the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydawg Posted September 20 Author Share Posted September 20 My starter is on the passenger side of the engine,but bending a wrench is a good idea,thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydawg Posted September 20 Author Share Posted September 20 I tapped on the solenoid and starter with a hammer and it`s cranking again.I`m thinking maybe the contacts in the solenoid are corroded or pitted.I`ll remove it and see what`s up when I get a chance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb73lt Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 Seems like a little dynamic adjustment was in order and saved you some work!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydawg Posted September 21 Author Share Posted September 21 Lol,hope it keeps working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocky Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 (edited) 15 hours ago, skydawg said: I tapped on the solenoid and starter with a hammer and it`s cranking again.I`m thinking maybe the contacts in the solenoid are corroded or pitted.I`ll remove it and see what`s up when I get a chance. I think a good solenoid cleaning is all you need??? Be sure to pull the plunger and hit it and the barrel with some emery cloth to remove any corrosion. Edited September 21 by Brocky Quote Brocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 that was the first thing i thought of,,,good luck bud,,,bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 i would also rebuild the pareval switch i know thats not the right spelling,,hell i cant even pronounce it my 62 F model had the same issue,,,bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brocky Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 Bob, Are you trying to say Parallel Switch??? 1 Quote Brocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 Just now, Brocky said: Bob, Are you trying to say Parallel Switch??? there you go,,,,,,,thanks for that ahahahahahahahaha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 i couldnt even pronounce it,,,to shout it into my phone for a printout,,,like i usually do when i dont know the spelling,,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydawg Posted September 21 Author Share Posted September 21 It originally had a S/P switch and POS ground,now NEG ground w/ 12V starter.four 6V batteries,so plenty of amps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 Are you saying you eliminated the SP? I am not sure how that works. That would mean you have 24 V going to everything ha ha maybe I’m missing something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 (edited) There are 3 ways to eliminate the Series/Parallel switch, or there used to be, one may not be available due to Elon buying then re selling Maxwell. 1st is to change the starter and cabling to a 12 volt crank/ run system 2nd is to used a TR alternator with both 12 and 24 volt output, The batteries are wired in series and the 12 volt truck loads are placed on only 2 of the batterys, the remaining two go to the starter in series with the 1 st two. Works but the batteries should be swapped around periodically for best life. 3rd and the one I would recommend, if it is still available is the Maxwell EMS, it will charge on 12 volt but supply 24 volt to the starter. It is the size of one Group 31 and can supply more than 4 group 31's can for short cranking loads. I had the 12 volt version in one of my trucks that didn't have room for air start. Even with the 12 volt holding less power than the 24 it cranked no problem in -25F temps. The 24 volt unit would charge on anywhere from 10 volt to 30 volts, so ideal for a 12 volt run truck with a 24 volt cranking system Edited September 21 by Geoff Weeks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydawg Posted September 22 Author Share Posted September 22 The S/P switch is eliminated,everything sees 12V,the parallel output of 2 pairs of 6V batteries.Starter and generator are 12V. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 OK, I’m lost. Ha ha good luck. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 44 minutes ago, mowerman said: OK, I’m lost. Ha ha good luck. Bob He just means that he converted to a 12 volt system, with 2 sets of two 6 volts, so two twelve volt packs made from two six volt batteries. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 When I converted mine to 12v, I used four 12v in parallel. It would spin over in single digit weather and start without ether! Overkill but at the time it sat outside and I wanted it dependable. Once the batteries needed to be replaced it only got two because it sits inside now. With air start, not sure I will need to replace those two batteries? They only need to start my Onan and two are overkill for that. 1 Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davehummell Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 I have two 12-volt truck batteries in my B model they were in it when I bought it 6 years ago and they always started it, but I never tried starting it in under 20 degrees' Larry you going down to the Mack Museum show I was down before covid and I thought it was a cool show I would like to go down it's easier for me to go there than driving down to Gerhart's. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted September 26 Share Posted September 26 Likely won't make the Museum. Gerharts maybe. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted September 27 Share Posted September 27 13 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said: He just means that he converted to a 12 volt system, with 2 sets of two 6 volts, so two twelve volt packs made from two six volt batteries. OK, thanks for that now that you explained it it makes sense. I thought it was something like that, but I can’t quite figure it in my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted September 27 Share Posted September 27 I only owned one truck with the 24 V starter and it was too long ago, but it did have 4—6 V batteries of parallel switch but yeah that would make sense. I guess even today four six volts would give you a lot more cranking power than two 12s… bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted September 27 Share Posted September 27 I do know then they were telling me just one of the six v was a little weak. It would make a really big difference in trying to get it started. Actually what I think about it my DM was 24 V and I was having the same issue. I got rid of everything I put in an air starter. I was never really sure what was wrong with it. I just got rid of the whole system. I’m getting old completely forgot about this one under my nose. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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