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After a bunch of hunting I found an axle I felt that would fit the b model got it for 250 bucks so it wasant that bad came out of a Thomas cab over bus the center bolt holes were only 1/2 narrower so a come along pulled the springs together into place the u bolt holes were close too biggest thing was trying to wife out where the wheels would sit in the fenders being the axle had no wheels on it but other than that it’s going fairly well I’ll post some pics

If your going to be a bear be a grizzly

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IMG_0883.thumb.png.5c22e233237658d8b46ec869e261f6d6.pngthis is where I hit the road block I have the rebuildable drag link the end that went in the original axle is too small I need the same size ball but a bigger tapered shank to fit the bigger axle the paper has the measurements I think that will work . Where can you find thes ? My idea is to cut up a tie rod end and take this part out of it if I can find the correct size any other ideas ?

If your going to be a bear be a grizzly

Thanks Bob I try to do what I can on a budget I guess the truck is never finished I am glad I’m doing it though the front tires that were on it looked ok till I too them off they were totally dry rotted on the inside 

If your going to be a bear be a grizzly

Yes, mine are all junk. Two of them are shredding rubber and flat. I’m going to have to do something soon. I’ve got to at least takeoff the two shredded and swap some things around for now. I am also on a budget now I am retired and trying to cut a few corners around here, I was going to go for the double coins 175 a piece I can’t even find those now Hobby trucks nobody really wants to go full on with prices

1st thing to check is to see if the steering arm on the old axle can be used on the new, not likely but worth a look.

 Next would be to see if there is a way to fit a newer drag link on. 

 Not sure you can cut open a new tie rod end and get the profile ball you are looking for.

Rare parts, could likely mfg one to your specs, but $$$$

 I had a local machine shop make some parts for one of my vehicles for very reasonable price. 

 Rather late now, but new tubeless tires on those demountable rims would cost a lot less, if money was a concern.

19 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Machine shop hell I had not thought of that. That’s a fabulous idea.

Not always a "slam dunk" as some shops shy away from "critical automotive" parts like steering and brakes out of liability fears.

 That said I got internal brake caliper parts made for a Saab I was working on.  I would have preferred having them made from "hard chrome" bar stock, but price and what the shop had on hand, were made of stainless. Cost of 12mm hard chrome bar stock alone cost more than the whole job!

Calipers in question had the parking brake as part of them, and were decades out of production and NLA from rebuilders like Cardone etc. 

Best to provide with connecting parts and have them "make to fit" rather then hand drawn pictures. Even supplying the old pins I needed to have made, I had to take them back to cut threads deeper, as it was tighter class fit of the threads. Live and learn. The shop admonished me in the future to bring the mating parts!

 Most of those ball studs use a common taper and reamers are sold to that taper. 

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Yes, steering in brake parts don’t wanna take any chances a while back one of out members with a B model had his steering column sheer in half pulling out of sma gas station thank god he wasn’t in a curve at top speed when it happened 

40 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Not always a "slam dunk" as some shops shy away from "critical automotive" parts like steering and brakes out of liability fears.

 That said I got internal brake caliper parts made for a Saab I was working on.  I would have preferred having them made from "hard chrome" bar stock, but price and what the shop had on hand, were made of stainless. Cost of 12mm hard chrome bar stock alone cost more than the whole job!

Calipers in question had the parking brake as part of them, and were decades out of production and NLA from rebuilders like Cardone etc. 

Best to provide with connecting parts and have them "make to fit" rather then hand drawn pictures. Even supplying the old pins I needed to have made, I had to take them back to cut threads deeper, as it was tighter class fit of the threads. Live and learn. The shop admonished me in the future to bring the mating parts!

 Most of those ball studs use a common taper and reamers are sold to that taper. 

I belive the ball portion of such the pin is heat treated. So not that easy deal using a machine shop. Could be sure fabricated of a common steel and if the truck is for hobby with low miles that could work. At the same time my suggestion is the middle portion of the body of the pin isn't hard as the ball to not by crusty since it's supposed to withstand hit shocks.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

54 minutes ago, Vladislav said:

I belive the ball portion of such the pin is heat treated. So not that easy deal using a machine shop. Could be sure fabricated of a common steel and if the truck is for hobby with low miles that could work. At the same time my suggestion is the middle portion of the body of the pin isn't hard as the ball to not by crusty since it's supposed to withstand hit shocks.

That is why my 1st suggestion was "Rare Parts" they are well versed in that kind of thing.

 That said, I don't think they are hard, a quick stroke with a file would let you know.  Don't want them to fracture, which is more likely the harder you make something.

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I ended up taking a piece of tubing heating it red hot and beat the drag link end into it making a cone then cleaned it up and pressed it into the stearing arm with some bearing mount on it once tightened it should work out good

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If your going to be a bear be a grizzly

That would work indeed if the washer under the lock nut is large enough. Also I'd revise the nut torque after 500-1000 miles since that tubing isn't a perfect match to the arm inner cone and may seat better during "run in" loosening the nut.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

20 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

That is why my 1st suggestion was "Rare Parts" they are well versed in that kind of thing.

 That said, I don't think they are hard, a quick stroke with a file would let you know.  Don't want them to fracture, which is more likely the harder you make something.

It appears to me I checked tie rod balls of my 1945 Mack and they were heat treated or chrome plated for hardness. Oppositely to modern joints where the ball works against poly inserts those older balls were pre-loaded by steel counter-hemispherical pads. So steel worked by steel and with much higher stress concentration.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

  • 4 weeks later...
On 10/25/2024 at 6:16 AM, Mean Green said:

I ended up taking a piece of tubing heating it red hot and beat the drag link end into it making a cone then cleaned it up and pressed it into the stearing arm with some bearing mount on it once tightened it should work out good

I had some gears that went on a tapered shaft for a really old Cleveland overhead bridge crane. The new custom made gears had the taper cut just a hair big and the gear went on the shaft too far. I shimmed them with paper. The crane ran another 15 or 20 years until they tore the building down. Damn that thing was old. they claimed 1890's, all riveted construction, and it used carbon piles for resistors in the motor speed control. Had two hoists, and the cab traveled on the bridge with one of the hoists, that was a funky feeling

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JH2.jpg

Back in the 90"s company I hauled for took down a 200 ton bridge crane built in 1926, Hauled back to the Mfg and it was shortened and re installed in Norfolk & Southern yard . It was all rivet construction. Built like railroad rolling stock. Big Fishbelly girders.

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