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Hi all,  I have a 2010 CXU with an MP7.  I replaced the fuel filter housing and now I can not get the truck to fire.  I've tried all the things you would normally do.  Now I'm convinced I may have a line messed up or a banjo bolt.  I noticed as I was putting in back together that 1 of the bigger sized banjo bolts is bigger than the others.  It has same threads but is a bit longer than the others.  Does anyone know which line the bigger bolt goes go? I've attached a diagram of where each line goes and this is not how my lines are routed.  Does anyone know if there is a different diagram with the routing different than this?  Everything was original when I took it apart.   When I pump the hand pump, it will get hard after 15-20 pumps but then after trying to start the prime seems to go away, that is why I feel like a line may be wrong. Maybe someone could post some pictures of there housing and lines so I can compare to how I have them?  Thanks

mp7 fuel.png

I didn't have a VIN for a 2010 CXU with an MP7, but this is from a Granite of the same year with an MP7. Number 10 down there is an overflow valve on the return side, I don't remember if that can cause your issue or not. We never reuse these seals, but we are a dealership, so take that as you will. 

image.png.96487622b67f0befb40c4fa032859793.png

25 minutes ago, The Heinz said:

I didn't have a VIN for a 2010 CXU with an MP7, but this is from a Granite of the same year with an MP7. Number 10 down there is an overflow valve on the return side, I don't remember if that can cause your issue or not. We never reuse these seals, but we are a dealership, so take that as you will. 

image.png.96487622b67f0befb40c4fa032859793.png

Thank you! That looks more like what I've got.  Now...

(3) Tank to ECU.

(17) ECU to filter housing

(12) Return from head to filter housing

(4) and (8) to and from filter housing to pump, but which is which?

 

My vin # is 1M1AW02Y1AM011833 if that helps?

It certainly helps! #4 should be the return to the pump, Impact describes it as "FUEL FILTER BRKT-FUEL PUMP," while #8 should be the feed line from pump to filter, described as "FUEL PUMP-MAIN FILTER." 

Both of those banjo bolts use the same washer, Mack #20852765. The overflow valve according to your VIN is #21458307 should you need it. 

Sorry for the late reply, I'm now a Front Counter Salesman, so I am much, much busier than before. I've already had the privilege to order and quote parts for several older Macks, including an 80's DM. 

Edited by The Heinz
1 hour ago, The Heinz said:

It certainly helps! #4 should be the return to the pump, Impact describes it as "FUEL FILTER BRKT-FUEL PUMP," while #8 should be the feed line from pump to filter, described as "FUEL PUMP-MAIN FILTER." 

Both of those banjo bolts use the same washer, Mack #20852765. The overflow valve according to your VIN is #21458307 should you need it. 

Sorry for the late reply, I'm now a Front Counter Salesman, so I am much, much busier than before. I've already had the privilege to order and quote parts for several older Macks, including an 80's DM. 

I really appreciate it.  Hopefully I can get it sorted out in the morning.  I may have some more questions for you! Thank you!!

13 hours ago, Chase1210 said:

I really appreciate it.  Hopefully I can get it sorted out in the morning.  I may have some more questions for you! Thank you!!

Heinz you the man! Your definitely out pace us on that newer stuff! just keep your ears open and listen to the guys who are having the miss fortune of working on the stuff You'll learn lots! The fuel system on these is a bit of a dogs breakfast! the hokey little hand primer and all the check balls are a pain! These turds needed to have put an electric primer  pump on these would have elevated a few problems ! I Could go on and on but I won't ! I've said it before !  These engines have a good foundation However some of the dumbass addons are frustrating!

  • Like 1
15 hours ago, The Heinz said:

It certainly helps! #4 should be the return to the pump, Impact describes it as "FUEL FILTER BRKT-FUEL PUMP," while #8 should be the feed line from pump to filter, described as "FUEL PUMP-MAIN FILTER." 

Both of those banjo bolts use the same washer, Mack #20852765. The overflow valve according to your VIN is #21458307 should you need it. 

Sorry for the late reply, I'm now a Front Counter Salesman, so I am much, much busier than before. I've already had the privilege to order and quote parts for several older Macks, including an 80's DM. 

what position on the housing should the overflow valve be in? i can not get this thing to run.  i have good fuel flow from the tank when i pressurize it , but truck will not stay running and hand primer loses its pressure after every attempt to start 

 

If I'm not mistaken, the overflow valve screws into the head as the return-to-FF Housing side. This is me guessing as I haven't worked much on this particular setup, but could the overflow valve stick open and allow the fuel to drain back earlier than needed (Someone smart please help me out!) 

Are you sure you got the lines in the right spot on the transfer pump! ??? I'm not a guru either on this !  that said its got to be something simple !  Is the fuel pump putting out ??? What was your original issue before you changed the housing??

  • Like 1

Not sure if im helping,  but the fuel enters the rear port on the side of the head, and comes out through the port on the front of the head..  

Noted! I guess that valve does make a difference. Joey, fjh, and the others will have better answers for the lack of boost, but I know the CAC hot pipe (passenger's side) has a bad tendency to leak there, requires replacing the two blue boots and all four clamps. Could also be something in the EGR system causing a boost leak too, 

On 11/6/2024 at 9:07 AM, fjh said:

So you think its a fuel pressure problem but it could be something else!!?

I have already checked all the potential boost leak spots pretty extensively.  I suppose the CAC could have a leak somewhere that I'm missing down low where I can't really see.  After I was unable to find a boost leak I kind of switched gears to thinking it was a fuel problem, but I did not find any fuel blockages anywhere when I swapped the filter housing.  How can I check fuel pressure without a computer? Where would I tie a mechanical gauge into the sytstem?

Hate to say it but you’re chasing your tail without a computer! You need to know what that fuel pressure is and if the egr valve is closing as it should! Also if the mass flow is working correctly! Do you have codes engine light on ?

38 minutes ago, fjh said:

Hate to say it but you’re chasing your tail without a computer! You need to know what that fuel pressure is and if the egr valve is closing as it should! Also if the mass flow is working correctly! Do you have codes engine light on ?

The EGR isn't the problem 😉...

 

No codes, no lights. What is a good computer or scanner I can buy that will work with this truck that doesn't cost $1000?

34 minutes ago, Chase1210 said:

The EGR isn't the problem 😉...

 

No codes, no lights. What is a good computer or scanner I can buy that will work with this truck that doesn't cost $1000?

If your truck is deleted it makes it harder to diagnose! It can be the turbo causing this! The vgt may be stuck! if the egr is corked then possibly the vgt is stuck but not knowing the fuel pressure leavse you grasping at straws J pro is one I haven't worked with it Macpro may chime in and lead you to a better option I am not a guru on these so your talking with the wrong guy! If the turbo is stuck it will not throw a code period its one of those gut feeling things!

6 minutes ago, fjh said:

If your truck is deleted it makes it harder to diagnose! It can be the turbo causing this! The vgt may be stuck! if the egr is corked then possibly the vgt is stuck but not knowing the fuel pressure leavse you grasping at straws J pro is one I haven't worked with it Macpro may chime in and lead you to a better option I am not a guru on these so your talking with the wrong guy! If the turbo is stuck it will not throw a code period its one of those gut feeling things!

At one point in this trucks life it had a brand new turbo/vgt, still had no boost.  Then it was discovered that the egr was stuck open.  Hence the egr not being the problem anymore. ...very frustrating

you may be able to make up a fitting to attach to the banjo fitting port on the rear side of the head.  I dont remember if there are any plugged ports in the heads fuel gallery..  

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