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I am thinking of doing this to make the painting that much easier.Has anyone here done it before.It doesn’t look all that tough to do.My biggest concern is it has 65,000 lbs rears and canal back suspension.The truck has moved 100 ton before so I’m concerned with anything springing and not able to get it back together.

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I have never done a Mack camelback suspension but i'v done a lot of Hino rear suspension which is very similar.(almost a copy with a few small differences in my opinion).It is very heavy work and a lot of lifting gear,forklift,jacks and cribin is needed as well as an inch air socket tool.As Mechohaulic said its a great oppertunity to check all the wear parts and do a great paint job.Good luck with it and if you do it put plenty of pictures.The truck looks great by the way...

Paul

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crusieliner64, I don’t think any of the parts that may be worn out would be available.I am mostly doing this to get the paint job right.I know that no one will be crawling under the rears to look and the fifth wheel will cover most of the top but I will know.

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8 minutes ago, hicrop10 said:

crusieliner64, I don’t think any of the parts that may be worn out would be available.I am mostly doing this to get the paint job right.I know that no one will be crawling under the rears to look and the fifth wheel will cover most of the top but I will know.

Yeah I totaly get you there.I am the very same.. just want it to be  spot on.I was just pointing out it is a big job but its great satisfaction to know its done.I was inquiring about Camelback parts for our Cruiseliner and I was told theyre still availible.Our truck is plated for 150ton operation so it would be same as yours maybe???

Paul

1 hour ago, MACKS said:

The only thing holding the bogies on is the two trunnion caps underneath the trunnion bar right,once removed jack up the rails disconnect drive shaft,and air lines and roll em out..

Mack’s,no removing the caps won’t do it.I have to remove the 10-1  1/2 locking nut and the 2 torque rods on top.Then I will be able to slide them out.

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Frankly, I don’t think it’s worth the effort to do all that for a very little gain, but it’s your decision. You can’t really do much more than you already did to get at everything. But then again, if you do not pull it apart, you will be laying awake Knight thinking about it or at least I would be…..  As far as you’re going with that truck, why not just go for it I know an entire paragraph and I pretty much said nothing to help ha ha good luck bud. Great progress. Let’s keep it up.

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2 hours ago, MACKS said:

The only thing holding the bogies on is the two trunnion caps underneath the trunnion bar right,once removed jack up the rails disconnect drive shaft,and air lines and roll em out..

Wow that sounds really handy.Taking them out of a Hino double drive is a lot more involved than that...but then when I was doing them it was for full rebuilds so if your not taking them apart then thats the way to go...

Paul

Edited by cruiseliner64

I'd be real surprised if that frame sprung an eighth of an inch. Looks like the angles for the fifth wheel and rear crossmember and the end plates welded on the back would have to come off. Then slide it all out the back in one piece.   All I can picture in my head right now is the Proctor truck. 

I removed a set of tandems from my B73 when I got it to bring it back to a single axle. It wasn’t too hard to do and I don’t have a lot of heavy equipment. It sounds like you’re going to do it. Since you’re digging that deep it may be worth removing the inner frame support. That way you can get at any rust between the frame rails. It may take some extra cutting and then rewelding, but it could be worth it.

I help scrap two B63’s years ago with 58K rears and I can tell you they weigh about 7,000#’s without rims and tires. 

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First I’ve gotta say thanks to everyone that has responded,thank you.I’m thinking that I will pull the frame and rears out of the building then spin it around and push it back in. This way the rear of truck is right at the door, that way I can use something big to pull them out.Like mattb73lt said his 58,000’s were 7,000 lbs, mine are 65,000’s.The first thing I will try today is to try and loosen them up,with some heat and the 1” airgun.If they don’t come loose I may just bag it.Tks again look forward for the pictures.

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If your going new bolts and the old ones dont dont come off.. the Irish answer is the hot spanner.....Cut.I would always replace bolts that have been rusted together..if I can get new ones that is... 

Paul

Edited by cruiseliner64
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On this setup I believe the crossmember inside the tandem unbolts I have a truck with this setup, but I've never pulled it apart.  Trunnion bar underneath has bolt on caps underneath, so depending on what you're trying to accomplish you probably have a few options.  You could unbolts the trunnion bar caps and lift the truck off the suspension/tears.  Whatever you're thinking it requires lots of room and big toys to get this job done, everything is heavy!!!

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49 minutes ago, JoeH said:

On this setup I believe the crossmember inside the tandem unbolts I have a truck with this setup, but I've never pulled it apart.  Trunnion bar underneath has bolt on caps underneath, so depending on what you're trying to accomplish you probably have a few options.  You could unbolts the trunnion bar caps and lift the truck off the suspension/tears.  Whatever you're thinking it requires lots of room and big toys to get this job done, everything is heavy!!!

That’s the way I would go,then remove fifth wheel and plate should be plenty of room to sand blast and paint,chances are the trunnion caps and bolts will need replace anyway..

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