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The frame mounted booster allowed for more boost an worked better with bigger trucks, larger M/C, and more overall flexibility in the whole brake system.

 They were used up and until air brakes took over the medium truck market.

 You can replace the hydrovac with an "airpac" that is the same booster but boosted with air pressure instead of vacuum, then you have a brake controlled pressure signal that can be used to operate a trailer with air brakes.  It was a popular conversion after the war when there were plenty of hydraulic braked surplus trucks and not enough  air braked tractors around for towing semi's.

throw an air compressor on, exchange the hydrovac for an air pack, a few air tanks and valves and you were set.

  • Like 2
7 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

 The brakes are hydraulic with vacuum assist (boost). The thing in blue is the master cylinder, just like a car has. It is bigger and only has a single line. Dual masters didn't come out until much later.

The master is connected to the foot pedal by a push rod. It make pressure in the hydraulic line which goes to the wheel cylinders in each brake.

Along the way it passes through the frame mounted "Hydrovac booster". If the engine is off and no vacuum, the pressure passes right through the unit and on to the brakes, un boosted.

 IF the engine is running and there is vacuum in the booster, the control valve closes off vacuum to one side (rear) of the big can and modulates how much atmospheric pressure is allowed to the back side, which moves the piston in the hydraulic portion, boosting the amount of foot pressure from the master. In this way it multiplies the pressure generated by the drivers foot but is always controlled by the drivers foot pressure. 

 So it is not true "vacuum brakes" which work like air brakes in reverse, but vacuum assisted hydraulic.

Well, today I managed to take out those two components to check if they are still usable. I must admit, you were right:

image.png.cdefd103f3b66b325659d91b7a6c4a17.png

There are traces of oil inside, so they are indeed hydraulic with vacuum assist. However, there’s a piston (shaped like a cone) inside, which had gotten completely stuck for ages:

 image.png.18c125678772cf4cbc25f891b9b5d478.png

Since I’m Polish, this was no match for my 23-year-old hands, and voilà (don’t ask how I managed to do it...):

image.png.fd8edb609e1add03787cbeba594d2715.png

Here’s how the piston looks and a glimpse of the engineering inside:

image.png.7250b58e88c928b02cc166f19993eb30.png

So, yeah, it’s time to use a sandblaster for the external parts. I’ve already blasted one piece, so here’s a sneak peek of how beautiful it looks under all that rust:

image.thumb.png.71d115e70c5cb897c1a7d761529ad9c9.png

Have a nice rest of the day!

  • Like 2

Looks like you threaded a bolt into the piston, this is NOT the way to get it apart. The push rod has to ride in the concave space.

 If you ever have to do it again, make up a fitting  and grease nipple and pump grease into the outlet of master forcing out the piston (after removing the lock ring).

Measure the bore, if it 1 3/4" then the rebuild kit I referenced should work.

 The real question is what shape the bore is in?

No worries, I didn’t thread the bolt directly into the piston. Since the piston is in decent shape, I wanted to avoid causing any additional damage. I only needed to twist it slightly to loosen the rust so I could push it out with grease.

The only visible letters/numbers are "Wagner Lockheed." I’ll double-check for any other markings tomorrow after cleaning off the external dirt for a closer inspection.

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