Joseph Cummings Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 4 minutes ago, T-Mack1 said: Was looking at those. Would need regular polarity and reverse polarity diodes ( stud anode and stud cathode). 2 each for single phase (4), and 3 each for 3-phase (6), and would have to isolate the plates the studs are mounted too. That is why I was thinking salvaged from an electric forklift charger, there will be mounting plates (heat sinks) and insulator bushings already in there all made up already With those ebay diodes haw are you going to end up like this. You need 3 diodes going one way and 3 going the other. BTW the higher amperage the diode, the less cooling you will need. I mean we could get all technical and find out the resistance of each diode, and do the I2R calculation's, and then convert the Wattage to BTUs, calculate the airflow under the hood,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Or just oversize them a bit Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-569477 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Cummings Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 https://www.alibaba.com/trade/search?IndexArea=image_similar&escapeQp=true&imgUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fs.alicdn.com%2F%40sc04%2Fkf%2FHaa9bf09e3fc54590808c1b447993cdd2d.png_300x300.jpg&productId=11000000906976&scene=detailMainImg&spm=a2700.details&bucket=test Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-569478 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 you guys are making your life hard, https://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-dr5178pf-delco-cs144-series-140a-iref-alternators Good for 140 amp, easy to find, just add a cooling fan. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-569480 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 https://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-dr5180pf-delco-cs144-series-hi-output-200a-conversion-alternators even higher output unit, handle 100 amp with ease. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-569481 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Cummings Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 You know I was just thinking, being that it is a 3 phase source, the current on each phase should be ( the dc current output divided by the square root of three) So each individual diode is not really carrying the full DC current Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-569529 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted Saturday at 06:13 PM Share Posted Saturday at 06:13 PM (edited) Since this post got a fire under my butt to finish off the 95 amp 7 volt unit I have. I found out Leese Neville made a "factor update" kit to put silicon diodes in the older units. Made to update the selenium rectifier units. I found one N.O.S. that I have coming, should be here Monday and I'll try to remember to take pictures. From what I could see of it, you get a new rear housing and a cover with the diodes, you remove the three phase taps and replace with a similar terminal block with +, field, and - being the output and input. I'm not entirely sure it will be a direct fit to mine, as I guess, the style alternator could have 3 different rear bearings and this kit fits only one. I am sure there will be a way to either swap bearings or adapt to use the bearing I have. It said 6 volt to 95 amp (mine is rated at this I think) and 12 volt to 65 amp. Not sure why that would be, as most diodes only care about current and PIV. Cost way more than doing it yourself, and not worth the cost on a practical matter, but will be going on a "period" truck and I didn't want it to look "hacked". Edited Saturday at 06:22 PM by Geoff Weeks 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-570111 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Cummings Posted Saturday at 06:41 PM Share Posted Saturday at 06:41 PM 24 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said: Since this post got a fire under my butt to finish off the 95 amp 7 volt unit I have. I found out Leese Neville made a "factor update" kit to put silicon diodes in the older units. Made to update the selenium rectifier units. I found one N.O.S. that I have coming, should be here Monday and I'll try to remember to take pictures. From what I could see of it, you get a new rear housing and a cover with the diodes, you remove the three phase taps and replace with a similar terminal block with +, field, and - being the output and input. I'm not entirely sure it will be a direct fit to mine, as I guess, the style alternator could have 3 different rear bearings and this kit fits only one. I am sure there will be a way to either swap bearings or adapt to use the bearing I have. It said 6 volt to 95 amp (mine is rated at this I think) and 12 volt to 65 amp. Not sure why that would be, as most diodes only care about current and PIV. Cost way more than doing it yourself, and not worth the cost on a practical matter, but will be going on a "period" truck and I didn't want it to look "hacked". It looks like there is plenty of meat there if you have to bore it for a larger OD bearing. And if the bearing is smaller, sleaving it should be no problem at all 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-570113 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted Saturday at 06:49 PM Share Posted Saturday at 06:49 PM (edited) My thoughts also, but two of the bearings at least have the same ID so it should be as "simple" as removing the slip-rings and replacing the bearing. I say simple, because I wouldn't attempt without slip-ring replacements being on hand. I think I have found those as well. Edited Saturday at 06:52 PM by Geoff Weeks Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-570114 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted Saturday at 06:50 PM Share Posted Saturday at 06:50 PM better picture of the bearing bore: Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-570115 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Cummings Posted Sunday at 01:59 AM Share Posted Sunday at 01:59 AM 7 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said: removing the slip-rings and replacing the bearing. The slip rings are outboard of the bearing? Do the brushes go into the back? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-570137 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted Sunday at 12:43 PM Share Posted Sunday at 12:43 PM Yes, the brushes are outboard of the rear bearing. While not as common as inboard, there are still some in use today that are like that. The Prestolite series comes to mind. They tend to be units that have ball bearings for the rear bearing. Ones with needle bearings that ride on the shaft have inboard slip rings. Brushed go in holders like this that screw into the rear housing . 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-570149 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Weeks Posted 1 hour ago Share Posted 1 hour ago Rather than get further off topic, I started a new thread here: Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/74986-question-on-rpm-limiter-carb/page/3/#findComment-570248 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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