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Hi everyone, thanks for all the info in the forum. So I decided to go through and paint my 1986 RM6864X over the winter, but when i got into the rear axle to fix a seal, there was evidence of a bearing failure, and the previous owner tried to put it back together without replacing the hub. The hub bearing is cracked, and the seal face on the axle housing was pretty damaged. All I can find out about this axle is that its a 6.14 meritor according to old notes on my parts manual No tags anywhere giving the model. Getting a new hub is near impossible, but I would love to figure out if there’s a replacement that fits Pilot wheels instead of Budd. All the part numbers in my book are obsolete. I guess the main thing is retaining the axle with a speedi-sleeve (anybody use one?) and finding the hub. The local dealer can get the bearings and seal. The front of the spindle is about 3 1/16” in diameter. Any idea about what’s out there that fits these axles? Or perhaps the axle model? Or contact the Mack museum? Thank you! Tristan 

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Get some photos of the offending axle and axle housing 

Measure the hub, I can see the bearing is busted but can't see the hub damage 

Can clearly see the axle damage

A seal like this will probably work fine here as the rubber bit doesn't spin

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Paul

 

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Ok, start with the bearing numbers, both inner and outer cup and cone. Get the seal bore and part where the seal rides diameters.

Unless it has a real odd bearing spacing or brake spider placement, I suspect a newer outboard drum type hub could be fit.

My guess is it will be a typical 20K/40K hub. Hub used on 20K single or 40K tandem axles. 

If you can get the aprox bearing spacing that will also be helpful.

I am assuming std 16.5x 7 rear shoes?

They are on spokes, but not so sure about Disk.

The next thing you need to know is the bolt circle for the axle studs and count and the diameter of the studs.

7" B/C and 5/8" dia studs 8 count are common, but 3/4" and other sizes are used.

580 outer bearing cone space a little over 4" apart are common on the spindle if  in the range I mentioned.

If it falls into the common hub, then you could replace with outboard drums and common hubs.

https://www.webbwheel.com/online_catalog_hubdetail.php?hn=26431--MLT

Edited by Geoff Weeks
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I just realized I mis-read the 1st post, It isn't the hub that is cracked, but the bearing race. Knock out the race and inspect where the bearing goes. Get a new set of bearings, or at least an outer race, and see if it will press firmly into the hub. If so, you are good to go, if not you can look to replace the hub or have it built up and re-machined to hold the bearing.

Building up and re-machining will cost a few bucks, but everything you have can be re-used.

 New hub means new drum and may be new wheels.

If your lucky it will hold a new race and can go back together.

Geoff and Joey your both right, the bearing is only cracked

My mistake as I miss read it and I guess I mucked it up for others following me

So I am thinking the hub is damaged for the bearing to open up that far 

 

Paul

Thats quite possible. He will just have to fit a hood race in there to see. It may have spun a groove inside the bore, we dont know yet.  Im still surprised a replacement hub cant be found in the parts lookup system .

Sorry for the late reply, I’ve been really busy with the paint job. I ordered new bearings, just to see if the race and seal will fit in there snug. Yes, like Geoff said, i can only fine outboard hubs (I assume that means the hub slides over the lug studs) compared to bolt on. If that race is loose, how bad would it be to weld in the race haha? I bet the heat might make it crack again. JB weld? I will look into machining as well, that makes good sense.  I would love to be able to fit super single 13” wheels, which are really rare for Budds, so the back wheels and tires match the front. But that may be asking for too much. I will see what’s out there for a 23k Meritor axle. I will measure the outer spindle tomorrow to see if they are common hubs. Thank you guys for all your help. The Mack dealer just says good luck, and they cant even get a built sheet for my truck because its too old. Cat can rebuilt a 1975 dozer at the dealership, but Mack could care less about anything over 15 years old. 

On 1/14/2025 at 2:36 PM, Mark T said:

That housing is probably a more popular 23,000 pound  Meritor or Rockwell piece than the mystery hub is making you think.  

Yes it is a Rockwell. Don’t know about weight rating. 

Find a more common version of that rear, and bolt your pumpkin in it. Be nice if you could find one out of a Mack. Although it sounds like a lot less work to just have that bore welded up and re-machined

 

JH2.jpg

The cone part of the bearing and the roller part are available in lots of combinations generally 

So if the outer cone is loose dont dispare as usually different cones of greater out side diameter are available to match the inner bearing

You will need a decent bearing retailer that actually knows what they are doing to do this 

Then get the hub machined out to suit the new cone 

Or you can weld the hub up and machine it back out to suit, it will be I, imagine cast steel, not cast iron, if it's cast iron machine it out and shrink a sleeve with liquid nitrogen and drop it in,  then machine it out to correct size, it will be as good as new 

No matter which way you choose this isn't a big problem to solve 

 

Paul

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I had hubs "spray welded" and re-machined before with good results. Often the amount of metal needed make a sleeve difficult and over-boreing  effects the seal area also, so sleeve would have to extend out to there.Hub is thin at that area. If you have go with machine work talk to a few machine shops to see what they recommend.

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