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So my old girl has been parked up around 30 years. When I lift the clutch up it takes a while for drive to engage even when my foot is all the way off the pedal. Is it just a build up crud and rust on the fly wheel or something more. To me the clutch seems to be working mechanically ok 

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I was thinking the pressure plate looked modern compared to the age of the truck. I wonder if it still has the dog dish clutch?  Ive done a couple swaps using an E-7 flywheel and Eaton Easy Pedal clutch before.  I wonder what the repair history is..

3 hours ago, fjh said:


There is no free pedal there  you need to wind on the inner ring till you get an 1/8 at the fork! if it aint seized!

I’ve spoke to Paul and he has said the same thing. I’m going to adjust the clutch on Sunday and give it a try. I don’t think the fork would be seized as it seems to be moving ok in the video ? 

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To do it right, you set the clutch brake adjustment with the linkage/cable/ at the arm first, then adjust the ring. That way the geometry for everything is right. Looking at the video, I have a feeling the clutch was slipping and someone tried to adjust it by putting more play in the linkage instead of turning the ring. To me the throw out bearing looks kinda close to the pressure plate

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2 minutes ago, Joseph Cummings said:

To do it right, you set the clutch brake adjustment with the linkage/cable/ at the arm first, then adjust the ring. That way the geometry for everything is right. Looking at the video, I have a feeling the clutch was slipping and someone tried to adjust it by putting more play in the linkage instead of turning the ring. To me the throw out bearing looks kinda close to the pressure plate

Tbh I’ve done plenty of work on modern clutches but not many of this setup so any info is appreciated 

12 minutes ago, Joseph Cummings said:

To do it right, you set the clutch brake adjustment with the linkage/cable/ at the arm first, then adjust the ring. That way the geometry for everything is right. Looking at the video, I have a feeling the clutch was slipping and someone tried to adjust it by putting more play in the linkage instead of turning the ring. To me the throw out bearing looks kinda close to the pressure plate

Very True Joe ! Excellent observation !  check to see if the bearing reaches the brake if so leave it and proceed with the ring adjustment! If it doesn't!  tweak the outside lever to ensure engagement of the brake then the ring! As the internal adjustment does not effect the brake much! and you can always readjust accordingly after you get free pedal ! I notice that this may have the notch style adjustment you will have to move the ring At min Three notches to get to free pedal and likly and extra 2-3 to get proper free pedal! 

Should be an adjustment on the arm where it goes onto the shaft, it'll have a square headed bolt with a lock nut. There is also a bolt coming in from the side that you have to loosen to do the adjustment. Your clutch petal shouldn't go to the floor. The bearing should hit the clutch brake with the petal something like 1/2 inch from the floor. You do that adjustment first. Then you check your free play at the top. The top free play is adjusted by turning the ring inside the pressure plate. 

You have a "Spicer 14 inch Angle Spring" Pressure plate. How you adjust the ring depends on if it is early or late production. 

First pic is early, second is late

 

 

Screenshot 2025-01-31 134441.png

Screenshot 2025-01-31 134044.png

Edited by Joseph Cummings

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I think my head has just gone pop 🤣🤣🤣. So I adjust the clutch lever on side of the gearbox first. What’s the best way of doing this as I will be doing it by myself ? The photos didn’t come through bud 

7 minutes ago, Nathanwhit1 said:

I think my head has just gone pop 🤣🤣🤣. So I adjust the clutch lever on side of the gearbox first. What’s the best way of doing this as I will be doing it by myself ? The photos didn’t come through bud 

You need a second person to do it right but a stick from the clutch pedal to the seat to hold it down will work!

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Interesting, i was taught to set the 1/8" free play gap and 1/2" gap between the clutch brake and throughout bearing, then adjust pedal movement if needed, at the clutch arm to get the 3 positions of the clutch pedal in the right locations.  Looks like i need to open the maint and lube book again..

Edited by Joey Mack
Pour sell fone sperring
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1 minute ago, fjh said:

You need a second person to do it right but a stick from the clutch pedal to the seat to hold it down will work!

Yeah Paul told me to do that with adjusting the ring it’s the lever part I’m not quite sure about 

Fjh,,  i still have a tool i made for this. I cut an expandable load bar down to a useable length. I push the clutch and use the tool against the pedal and door frame near the bottom so i can get out of the truck. It holds the clutch down for me. It takes a couple extra minutes, but i got very good at doing it.  I worked alone quite often...

Edited by Joey Mack
Pour sell fone sperring
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I have a 18 inch bit for my air hammer it is the ultimate adjustment tool ! I also have a kenttool tire bar that  works  well as  my second choice I have no patents for using that tool there joey We had one at the shop and it was rarely used! there were always complications finding it and useing it you only have one leverage point with it and a lot of time you need extra leverage to git the ring to move ! 😡

13 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

image.jpeg.cae14d68ce8f808900a884466c1de76c.jpeg

That's the tool for the old production (Pre 1990ish). That pressure plate has a notched ring, and a little fork held in by a 3/8" 18 thread bolt for a lock

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