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1 minute ago, Joey Mack said:

I thought i saw that style of adjuster in the pictures...  

It might be. I couldn't see it too good in the vid

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Just be happy we aren't dealing with a Mack CL50 with the clutch brake on the countershaft and the adjustment shims

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Yeah , gotcha..  i missed a few things myself.  We try to give good diagnostics here. I find at times my fingers move faster then my mind.  I havent been under a truck in 3 years. And its starting to show.. 

3 hours ago, Joseph Cummings said:

NP, lots of steps get skipped in the real world. Bell housings only get dial indicated when they are replaced with a new or used one. I can just imagine if I would have shut a truck down over a couple thousands wear on the bell housing. Intermediate plate is used to align the lugs, no special alignment tool. and most times the lugs don't get removed unless you are resurfacing the flywheel. Most times when I was doing a clutch, it was an overnight deal with the truck having to work in the morning

Think you could still do a dump truck in under 8 hours ?   I don't believe I could pull it off anymore.  Used to be the norm.

I bet the clutch wouldnt release properly,  the flywheel was likely a bowl rather than flat..  i get it,  i never liked chop jobs, only did a few, they suck, work hard, it fails work hard again..  

Here's  a handy little thing I welded up from a grade 8 half inch bolt and an old push in typ adjuster.  Bolt it on the cover in place of the push in adjuster and then you can use something 3/4" to get the ring moving sometimes when they're putting up a fight.  Sometimes it works, sometimes it's time for a new clutch.

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2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

I bet the clutch wouldnt release properly,  the flywheel was likely a bowl rather than flat..  i get it,  i never liked chop jobs, only did a few, they suck, work hard, it fails work hard again..  

Eh....he was happy (lol)    My own, I had everything ( I was aware of) in stock. Flywheel, cluthch kit for the Fullers, OTC jack.

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You were ready.. perfect..  i have had to work on so much junk that it could take a whole shift to get it apart due to rust on top if what it takes to do an R or DM . I take the right door of DM's so i can fit in there to get the seat and floor pan out.. thats at leaste 90 minutes..

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When I was around 20, I used to get stuck doing all that. Got that I could cut motor mounts out and usually not burn anything.  Lot's of wet rags.... then you'd get to crawl under and lay in all that (lol)   At the time ??? I didn't know any better.   I swapped a Fuller 9 speed in one of my CHs one night (no clutch) in 5 hours. It was a reman that had an issue with the synchro.  Started when it got in @4  and was test driving @ 9.   I ain't got it in me anymore.  The CHs were a piece of cake after fight'n old Rs in the past.

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3 hours ago, Mark T said:

Here's  a handy little thing I welded up from a grade 8 half inch bolt and an old push in typ adjuster.  Bolt it on the cover in place of the push in adjuster and then you can use something 3/4" to get the ring moving sometimes when they're putting up a fight.  Sometimes it works, sometimes it's time for a new clutch.

IMG_20250131_190546965.jpg

IMG_20250131_190527201_HDR.jpg

This is an absolute! last resort! You can also  take the adjuster out and leave the brakes applied and quickly dump the clutch in and out ! If it doesn’t move with this method you will be doing a clutch!  You  don’t want to be doing this inside the shop!  I have managed to get them to move with this method but it’s a bit vicious! 

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i do not see a center tube that is connected to the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers? i just see the naked input shaft.........or im missing something???? i dont see this release bearing pulling the clutch open

Edited by glenbjackson
ahh called a relaese sleeve, dont see how it was installed without it yikes!!

there is supposed to be a tube(release sleeve[with bushings inside]) connecting to release bearing to the pressure springs!

so looks like simple replace clutch cover/release bearing

Edited by glenbjackson
16 hours ago, Mark T said:

Think you could still do a dump truck in under 8 hours ?   I don't believe I could pull it off anymore.  Used to be the norm.

I think my fastest was about 5 hours. No stuck bolts in the mounts. I'm talking R U DM Mack. F model or something much faster. Other makes without mounts on the trans, much faster. I used to keep a spline saver clutch in stock for those midnight clutch replacements. Can use the spline saver if the spline is worn or good.

Hell, I used to do an inchassis on a ENDT675 or 676 in a day if I already had a set of heads done. Most times I did have a set of heads done, nozzles with new tips, and connecting rods with new bushings. Did that stuff when things were slow.

Keep in mind I'm talking about no crank damage, no fitting oversized liners etc

Now at almost 64, yeah good luck. I've got torn tendons in my leg.. I can't even stand up on a frame rail. Two years ago I was climbing down off of a machine and the last step down was like 2 feet. My foot caught the base of a pump and I felt a pop,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

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