Back in the Mack Pack!

[BOBWhite]

1 hour ago, Geoff Weeks said:

I could be wrong, but I believe that is the type of shutter that is fully mechanical. It uses a "wax pill" to operate the shutter. No air involved at all.

 The temp setting should be the same as the thermostat, as the sensing unit is in the bottom tank.

Somewhere I have the info on them, as I have that type on one of my Fleetstars.

One of the things I remember it saying is "DO NOT FORCE" the shutter or you can damage the "pill".

On  mine, all I had to do to get it working is to take apart the linkage and paint with graphite paint.

This seems more likely as I haven't seen any air lines go down there. I probably can't change the "pill" thing out without draining the coolant right? I will at least remove the pin and see if the shutters are moving or need lube 

[Geoff Weeks]

Yeah, I don't know if parts are even available anymore for them. I would disconnect the linkage and see that everything moves freely. Other then that, the only real test would be to remove the engine fan and let the radiator heat up, until engine temp is close to 200 and see if they move.

You'll not likely see them move much when running the truck, as they close when the temp in the bottom tank is below (engine) thermostat setting.

[Geoff Weeks]

Should look something like this:

shutters.pdf

[BOBWhite]

31 minutes ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Should look something like this:

shutters.pdf 5.25 MB · 3 downloads

Thank you for that it looks exactly what I've got. What IH manual did that snippet come out of? 

[Geoff Weeks]

CTS 2301 It covers the Fleetstar line. Volume 2 covers cooling systems.

[Vladislav]

15 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

Here's a so so picture of the interior. Really good shape! Doors needs some attention but everything's there 

Wow! Steel dash! Looks cool, and the steering wheel seems seamless.

Wonder could you find any traces of presence of the V8 in the past? 

[BOBWhite]

Thank you for all the support and advice! Happy easter as well! 

Still trying to get a coolant gauge back, so we taped the wire we thought it was to the sensor with no luck. Not sure if that center part comes out without dumping the coolant but hopefully I can wire something back up. How do you test the gauge? Should it move when it's grounded or when the circuit is open? 

[BOBWhite]

2 minutes ago, Vladislav said:

Wow! Steel dash! Looks cool, and the steering wheel seems seamless.

Wonder could you find any traces of presence of the V8 in the past? 

The door tags are gone or have been painted over. I'm not sure if there is a number on the frame that would tell me or just how I would get that information. 

[Vladislav]

Just now, BOBWhite said:

The door tags are gone or have been painted over. I'm not sure if there is a number on the frame that would tell me or just how I would get that information. 

Just a question you sure may not answering. If no VIN how can you register the rig?

[Vladislav]

The frame rail is expected to have VIN stamped into RH side near the steer tyre area. But there could be an exception.

[BOBWhite]

17 minutes ago, Vladislav said:

Just a question you sure may not answering. If no VIN how can you register the rig?

It has a vin but the door tag is gone. Before the 1980s the Vin system wasn't standardized so there isn't much besides the serial number, and each brand was different. I'll take a look at number on the frame and see if it brings any useful info. Is there a decoder or would I have to send it into the Mack museum? 

[Vladislav]

This truck was up for sale about a decade ago. Zoom in the pic and you can see where to look at for the VIN. That's RS600 not RS700 but also Hayward production.

And Happy Easter to you!

This year this is the same date for both Catholic and Orthodox celebration.

[Vladislav]

Just now, BOBWhite said:

It has a vin but the door tag is gone. Before the 1980s the Vin system wasn't standardized so there isn't much besides the serial number, and each brand was different. I'll take a look at number on the frame and see if it brings any useful info. Is there a decoder or would I have to send it into the Mack museum? 

You would have to contact the museum. There's on-line decoder but it gives general info only. Something like the production year and possibly an engine option, such as Mack, Cummins, Detroit...

I was looking for actual info on my 1988 R688 such as the original engine number etc. Asked a few dealerships in the US (personally) and ended up getting essential info from the Museum guys.

[Vladislav]

Just now, BOBWhite said:

It has a vin but the door tag is gone. Before the 1980s the Vin system wasn't standardized so there isn't much besides the serial number, and each brand was different. I'll take a look at number on the frame and see if it brings any useful info. Is there a decoder or would I have to send it into the Mack museum? 

What you may find on the frame is the VIN stamping only. Or the chassis number (which I belive before 1980 and also after 1980 was VIN). BTW door tags also didn't contein engine info.

[BOBWhite]

How can I tell if my truck is a Hayward? Did they make RS700s in Hayward? 

[Vladislav]

Just now, BOBWhite said:

How can I tell if my truck is a Hayward? Did they make RS700s in Hayward? 

Yes. They made RS/RL700 in Hayward only. Too probably they were Hayward design too. Hayward discontinued them in 1978 (1979?) when RWS/RWL Superliner came to the scene. Production of RS600 continued and after closing Hayward (in 1980-82 time frame, don't remember) was removed to Macungie. So RS600 could be both produced at West and East coasts but 700's were Hayward built trucks only. 

[BOBWhite]

Well I found it just where you said it was and it matches the vin number (since it had frame work done I wasn't sure If it would). So it did have the ENDT865 in it originally, how neat! What year was the RS700s introduced and about how many did they make? 

Another thing I want to tackle on the truck Is setting the valve lash and cleaning/resealing everything. Do I need to remove the tip turbine unit to do this? or just the pipes going to it? 

[Brian L Blaylock]

Hey BOBWhite the first numbers on a truck with the endt-865 was RS-795 and the trucks with the endt-866 was RS-797

[mechohaulic]

21 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

This seems more likely as I haven't seen any air lines go down there. I probably can't change the "pill" thing out without draining the coolant right? I will at least remove the pin and see if the shutters are moving or need lube 

can see now you don't have the shutterstat system BUT the lower tank self contained (NO AIR)  system. disconnect linkage as prescribed  and carefully work shutters.

[mrsmackpaul]

2 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

Another thing I want to tackle on the truck Is setting the valve lash and cleaning/resealing everything. Do I need to remove the tip turbine unit to do this? or just the pipes going to it? 

I would think so, I  can't think of any other to get the rocker covers off

Tip turbine and the pipe work is pretty simple to remove 

 

Paul

[mrsmackpaul]

On 4/20/2025 at 9:28 AM, BOBWhite said:

Wow that tip turbine is LOUD once it gets going! I'll need earplugs if I work it all day. 

I wouldn't say mine is loud, can't hear it over the rest of the noise when coasting

Is there a hole and vent cut into the left hand side inner wheel guard, wheel well I think you all call them

Anyway, they normally have a big vent cut in there to let the noise and air out

 

Paul

[BOBWhite]

3 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

can see now you don't have the shutterstat system BUT the lower tank self contained (NO AIR)  system. disconnect linkage as prescribed  and carefully work shutters.

Yep did that and they are moving just fine but it is adjusted so that they are open all the time so there might be something wrong with the shutter unit. It would be nice if the Shutters worked but since it's mostly a summer truck they won't be used most of the time anyway. 

[BOBWhite]

2 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

I wouldn't say mine is loud, can't hear it over the rest of the noise when coasting

Is there a hole and vent cut into the left hand side inner wheel guard, wheel well I think you all call them

Anyway, they normally have a big vent cut in there to let the noise and air out

 

Paul

I will have to take a closer look and see where the turbine vent/check-valve is because I haven't found it. That Farr air cleaner doesn't deaden much of the sound so that also makes it pretty loud. 
On that note does the tip turbine have an oil line going to it or does it have a sealed bearing for the turbine shaft? Does that bearing ever go bad? 

[mrsmackpaul]

 

 

Might answer some questions 

 

 

Paul

[Mark T]

Tip fan shouldn't be "LOUD"  you can hear it when the engine starts to labor, but it's not supposeed to be crazy loud. Can't really see how they have fresh air going to it ??? or is the inlet T ed from the Farr ?  I'd take a good look for leaks after the turbo. Yes, the fan can seize too, easy enough to see if it turns freely. Some had a little trap door that worked with a Jake if it had one (SOME  not all) . All places to leak manifold pressure (noise you may be hearing). That picture you posted for the temperature gauge sorta looks like a capillary type. If it is, there's no repairing the capillary (what would be the wire) If I remember correctly, that can be changed depending on the gauge make. They're usually way too long and you'd just need to lose the extra as opposed to shortening it.  Another thing to think about in the front of it is some kinda screen in front of the radiator. I'd imagine with what you're using it for, the radiator could get clogged up fast, as the fan is always turning.  That is a nice old truck, I love seeing them still working.