Mag Drill:

[Rob]

I'm looking to purchase a mag drill for the shop. It will primarily be used for horizontal drilling of frames and such, with possibly some limited verticle drilling. Don't really mind spending the money for a good tool, (NO China) but don't know too much about them.

Any experience out there?

Thanks,

Rob

[Packer]

I've used some at differant times.

Really liked the Milwaukee brand!

One thing about mag drills is that you can't feed them like a drill press and the first time you do mash down on them - - - you'll be up the creek!!!

Packer

[Dlock13]

We have an older Black&Decker 3/4" Mag drill and a newer DeWalt annular cutter which uses a mill type bit for drilling. The DeWalt has a base that can be pivoted and fits into spots where a stationary base will not. We used the DeWalt to drill all the holes on the wrecker chassis we built and then reamed the holes for the body bound bolts with the Black&Decker. Get ready to use plenty of cutting oil.

[ThaddeusW]

Milwaukee would be my first choice for corded power tools. I have a bunch of Milwaukee power tools and they just keep going and going. DeWalt is my next pick, they are very sturdy tools and have the best cordless tools around unlike Milwaukee who's cordless tools are made in China .

[David]

We have a Milwaukee and really like it. You can spec them with different bases, power units and chucks. Check into the hole hawg bits. They cut ring out instead of removing all the material within the hole. A lot less work for the bit and much faster. We speced a 3/4" chuck and use the adapter for the bits. That way you can still use a conventional bit. They also make a howg wash solution for cooling that's cheaper and less of a mess than oil. After we bought ours we found a local welding supply shop that sells another brand (don't recall the name) of the same type of bits. They won't work in the Milwaukee, only in their drills. Their drills are smaller, easier to use and the shop can resharpen the bits. What ever kind you buy remember to always hook the safety chain. Then when someone kicks your power cord loose, you don't hear your $1500 drill bouncing off the floor.

[Rob]

Well I spoke with several persons that have used, and owned magnetic drills and a couple of suppliers in Peoria that sell all the good drills. I have purchased a Hougen HMD 505 series drill because of the external pressure lubrication when drilling horizontal. It was the only one that offered that option. It weighs about 45 pounds so should not be too awful heavy to work with.

I also ordered a "Rotobroach" cutter set that will cover from a 9/16" to 1-1/16" hole size. This drill will go to 2-3/8" hole size at 3 inches deep so I think I'll be covered. It did not offer a swivel base but at over a 1000 pounds of drill point pressure, it should be quick to make holes.

Really appreciate the advice and help in selection.

Thanks,

Rob

Hougen HMD505 Magnetic Drill

Pressure fed coolant system

Cutter Kit

[HK Trucking]

David said:

What ever kind you buy remember to always hook the safety chain. Then when someone kicks your power cord loose, you don't hear your $1500 drill bouncing off the floor.

Very good advice!

We have a Milwaukee Mag drill, and it will also "come unglued" from the frame if you try to put too much pressure on the drill bit.

I hook a safety chain to a cherrypicker when using it.

Our Milwaukee is a heavy b*tch, I pulled a tendon in my left bicep a couple years ago lifting it!

[Rob]

David said:

Very good advice!

We have a Milwaukee Mag drill, and it will also "come unglued" from the frame if you try to put too much pressure on the drill bit.

I hook a safety chain to a cherrypicker when using it.

Our Milwaukee is a heavy b*tch, I pulled a tendon in my left bicep a couple years ago lifting it!

I like the cherry picker arrangment, I'll remember that. This drill uses a safety chain, but I think I'll fashion an aircraft cable to use as it will be both lighter, and easier to set up. Haven't drilled anything of consequence yet so don't really know.

I haven't quite figgered out what I'll do with aluminum truck frames yet cause we know that this drill won't stick to aluminum. Maybe I'll come up with a steel plate to clamp to the frame but this will reduce the magnets pull if it is thin. I'm thinking a rectangular plate with threaded hooks sliding through guides, or bushings drawing the adapter plate tightly against the frame side via the flanges, then attach the drill to the plate.

New tool, new ideas to use it.

Rob

[Bollweevil]

The cherry picker idea is a good one. When installing the Camel Back trunnion in my RS700, I was able to borrow a heavy duty Milwaukee unit from a friend. 45 to 50 lbs. sounds about right. To begin with my impression was, hey this thing is as neat as sliced bread, what a wonderful invention. I soon found that even with a rotating base you had to position the drill close to where where you wanted to drill. Then with both hands and a knee holding the drill in position, I couldn't turn loose to turn on the magnet. No problem I just turned on the magnet first. Wham, against the frame rail, close but about an inch off, dang. Release the magnet, turn it back on, wham. Man I love this drill, but it is getting to be an arm full. I haven't reamed one locating hole and this sob is whipping my a$$. It's a good thing I'm a tough and determined old codger. I know exactly how Herb's arm felt. It takes a lot of oil to cool the tool bit, and you have to take the time to keep the mess cleaned up. Otherwise the magnet will move around on an oil slick frame. My project was compounded by the fact that the mounting holes in the used trunnion were already over sized. Once the trunnion was in place, and secure. I had to make a pilot bushing to fit the holes in the trunnion, and drill a pilot hole from inside the frame with a hand drill. Then use a piloted drill bit to inlarge the hole, then finish ream frame and trunnion to fit the trunnion bolts, which I had to make. It took the best part of two days to get it bolted in, after which I loaded up that crummy drill and took it home before I saw something else that needed drilling.

[Rob]

The cherry picker idea is a good one. When installing the Camel Back trunnion in my RS700, I was able to borrow a heavy duty Milwaukee unit from a friend. 45 to 50 lbs. sounds about right. To begin with my impression was, hey this thing is as neat as sliced bread, what a wonderful invention. I soon found that even with a rotating base you had to position the drill close to where where you wanted to drill. Then with both hands and a knee holding the drill in position, I couldn't turn loose to turn on the magnet. No problem I just turned on the magnet first. Wham, against the frame rail, close but about an inch off, dang. Release the magnet, turn it back on, wham. Man I love this drill, but it is getting to be an arm full. I haven't reamed one locating hole and this sob is whipping my a$$. It's a good thing I'm a tough and determined old codger. I know exactly how Herb's arm felt. It takes a lot of oil to cool the tool bit, and you have to take the time to keep the mess cleaned up. Otherwise the magnet will move around on an oil slick frame. My project was compounded by the fact that the mounting holes in the used trunnion were already over sized. Once the trunnion was in place, and secure. I had to make a pilot bushing to fit the holes in the trunnion, and drill a pilot hole from inside the frame with a hand drill. Then use a piloted drill bit to inlarge the hole, then finish ream frame and trunnion to fit the trunnion bolts, which I had to make. It took the best part of two days to get it bolted in, after which I loaded up that crummy drill and took it home before I saw something else that needed drilling.

That is another thing I liked about this Hougen; The control switch for the magnet is very easy to be at when you are positioning the drill for horizontal boring. In fact you "cradle" the back of the drill in one hand, and using your other, position the pilot into the pre punched center of the hole you will boring. A flip of the switch with the hand cradling the back of the drill, and it is set. I'm sure there will be some "out of positioning" that I will get into but this really is pretty easy to do. I'm sure with an overhead support, (cherry picker) supporting the dead weight of the drill, it will be even less cumbersome for proper placement.

I've used several verticle, and horizontal milling machines in the past and understand the need for coolant/lubricant. Also know very well the importance of reading your chip for correct drill, or tool point pressure for a clean finished operation.

I remember well the ordeal you had fitting the trunion into the R700 and the special bolts used. I'm sure that was quite the job to look forward to for completion. I hate when jobs go like that and usually plug the holes and start over. I can't hold a twist drill very steady in use so I wanted something like this for quite some time and I'll probably be the only one who uses it so don't mind spending funds for good stuff.

Rob

[theakerstwo]

I like the safety switch it has on the base if you upset the base it cuts the power.

[HK Trucking]

Hey Rob, I'm setting up another new truck, so I had the mag drill out last week drilling the mounting holes for the lift axles.

Took some pics to illustrate how I set it up.

I use a chain come along to hang the drill from the cherry picker, in addition to serving as a safety chain this makes vertical adjustment easy, just go up or down with the come along, no manhandling of the drill is necessary. Once the pilot hole bit is in the centerpunch I hit the magnet switch, double check to see that the bit hasn't moved off the mark, then start drilling.

I also run a chain come along from the drill to the opposite frame rail, to keep the magnet from pushing off of the frame when putting pressure on the bit.

[Rob]

That's a slick way to do it Herb. I've drilled a few test holes with mine but have not mounted the suspension that I purchased it for yet. One of these days.......

That looks to be a pretty heavy spec truck. International I suppose?

Rob

[HK Trucking]

That's a slick way to do it Herb. I've drilled a few test holes with mine but have not mounted the suspension that I purchased it for yet. One of these days.......

That looks to be a pretty heavy spec truck. International I suppose?

Rob

Yes, an International 5600i Paystar.

It's a 2007 leftover that the boss found hanging around at a dealer - no DPF!!!!!!

C13 430 HP Cat, RTOF16908LL Eaton Fuller, 4.56 ratio 46,000 lb Meritor full locking rears on Haulmaxx suspension.

[Rob]

Yes, an International 5600i Paystar.

It's a 2007 leftover that the boss found hanging around at a dealer - no DPF!!!!!!

C13 430 HP Cat, RTOF16908LL Eaton Fuller, 4.56 ratio 46,000 lb Meritor full locking rears on Haulmaxx suspension.

Hey Herb, have you ever re railed a truck using aftermarket rails? I was under the R795 this afternoon and with the trans out it is readily apparent that I shouldn't use this frame for my Detroit project. It is spread from front to rear, and a good portion of the crossmembers are unreliable due to rust. I think I could knock two of them out with a sledgehammer using more force to lift the hammer than required for impact. The area under the cab from the start of the "splay" about 18" towards the rear is useable, but from there back, unusable for me. I'll stretch the truck out a little bit to about 250" if I do this.

Don't realistically think Momma is going to let me have another truck, so can't just plan on replacing it.

Thanks,

Rob

[HK Trucking]

Hey Herb, have you ever re railed a truck using aftermarket rails? I was under the R795 this afternoon and with the trans out it is readily apparent that I shouldn't use this frame for my Detroit project. It is spread from front to rear, and a good portion of the crossmembers are unreliable due to rust. I think I could knock two of them out with a sledgehammer using more force to lift the hammer than required for impact. The area under the cab from the start of the "splay" about 18" towards the rear is useable, but from there back, unusable for me. I'll stretch the truck out a little bit to about 250" if I do this.

Don't realistically think Momma is going to let me have another truck, so can't just plan on replacing it.

Thanks,

Rob

Mornin' Rob.

No, I've never completely re railed one like you're proposing to do, but I've lengthened a few frames.

Always just added on to the rear of the existing rails however, never had to splice way up there near the cab.

I think it should be do-able however if you could get some rail thats the same exact dimensions as the original.

Since it's not gonna be worked hard, maybe just make it single frame, then future rust jacking & spreading won't be an issue.

Cut the old rails just ahead of where the spreading starts, maybe you could just take out the rest of the inside rail, since the trans & engine are out anyway, that would make the splice easier.

Step cut the existing rail, then step cut the new rail to match, bevel the ends, fit the rails together, clamp and check & recheck for perfect alignment Tack weld, then recheck alignment, then weld securely.

I would also bolt some reinforcement rails inside and outside of the spliced area, extending at least 18 inches in each direction.

Under normal circumstances on a working truck I've always considered it "taboo" to splice a frame in that area, but in your situation, that's about the only alternative, given the poor condition of the existing rails.

[Rob]

Mornin' Rob.

No, I've never completely re railed one like you're proposing to do, but I've lengthened a few frames.

Always just added on to the rear of the existing rails however, never had to splice way up there near the cab.

I think it should be do-able however if you could get some rail thats the same exact dimensions as the original.

Since it's not gonna be worked hard, maybe just make it single frame, then future rust jacking & spreading won't be an issue.

Cut the old rails just ahead of where the spreading starts, maybe you could just take out the rest of the inside rail, since the trans & engine are out anyway, that would make the splice easier.

Step cut the existing rail, then step cut the new rail to match, bevel the ends, fit the rails together, clamp and check & recheck for perfect alignment Tack weld, then recheck alignment, then weld securely.

I would also bolt some reinforcement rails inside and outside of the spliced area, extending at least 18 inches in each direction.

Under normal circumstances on a working truck I've always considered it "taboo" to splice a frame in that area, but in your situation, that's about the only alternative, given the poor condition of the existing rails.

I've still got this air ride R685 chassis, but it is shallower in depth than the R795, so don't really want to use it there. I know where there is a single rail R795 that is a 212wb and if I were to use it I'd need to stretch it out, and that equals double cost. This R795 truck has a frame that is about 10" deep and is full double railed.

There is a guy out west of town that runs a rolloff service. I know he has a couple of retired Macks in his parts yard and I'm gonna check with him. One of them, (DM series) has a "fish belly" frame and I'm gonna measure it to see if it will work. If it can be used, (provided he will sale, or trade me out of it) it may need to shortened it as it could carry a 40yd container.

Thanks,

Rob

[Bollweevil]

Another option, instead of scabbing new rails, gathering up usable cross members, and re drilling everything. You could do as my friend from NC, did. He used an air ride cut off from an early 90's CH on his RS700. With the engine and transmission already out, it would not be much more trouble to set the cab off. Not only would the frame repair be much easier, however you elect to do it. But with the cab out of the way, You can set the Detroit where it needs to go, with plenty of fan clearance, and clearance for the rest of the accessories. If you have to set the cab back a few inches when remounting it, so what. An extended, extended hood R model would be really neat. Even more so if you put enough gear in it to set your hair on fire.

[Rob]

Another option, instead of scabbing new rails, gathering up usable cross members, and re drilling everything. You could do as my friend from NC, did. He used an air ride cut off from an early 90's CH on his RS700. With the engine and transmission already out, it would not be much more trouble to set the cab off. Not only would the frame repair be much easier, however you elect to do it. But with the cab out of the way, You can set the Detroit where it needs to go, with plenty of fan clearance, and clearance for the rest of the accessories. If you have to set the cab back a few inches when remounting it, so what. An extended, extended hood R model would be really neat. Even more so if you put enough gear in it to set your hair on fire.

Hi James, you've got a valid option there that I'd never thought of. A CH will be moderately easy to come across and if it shows in parts, I can get it by the "powers that be", (and keep my nuts). I'll have to apply this newfound knowledge to the mix.

So much of this project is "trial and error" I wouldn't mind starting from a bare roller as it would be a lot easier to work with. At this point I'm planning on stripping out the frame and pushing it outside. I need the room inside and the cab is not weathertight.

I'm going to slide a 13 speed up into it this afternoon to snap a couple photos for ducky, then get a move on.

Need to build another cab dolly, they are piling up in here!!

Thanks,

Rob