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whats the best way to pull the steering wheel on a b61t? just about ready to remove cab.

if you don't have a steering wheel puller the 2 hammer method usually works. remove the horn button and back the nut off even with the end of the shaft, so you don't damage the threads on the shaft or the nut. have a helper take a ball peen hammer and hold it tight against the nut while you pull up on the wheel hard as you can. then have him hit the hammer on the shaft with another hammer, and it'll usually pop loose. usually that is.

if it doesn't, you can try having your helper pull up on the wheel while you hit it with the hammer.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

if you don't have a steering wheel puller the 2 hammer method usually works. remove the horn button and back the nut off even with the end of the shaft, so you don't damage the threads. have a helper take a ball peen hammer and hold it tight against the nut while you pull up on the wheel hard as you can. then have him hit the hammer on the shaft with another hammer, and it'll usually pop loose. usually that is.

if it doesn't, you can try having your helper pull up on the wheel while you hit it with the hammer.

i didnt know what type of puller would work since i didnt see any threaded holes in steering wheel to attach a puller. do you have to drill and tap your own or what?

i didnt know what type of puller would work since i didnt see any threaded holes in steering wheel to attach a puller. do you have to drill and tap your own or what?

The "correct" type puller looks like a large "C" clamp with a wide base saddle that is a fork. The saddle bears against the bottom of the steering wheel while the forcing screw pushes it's saddle that bears on the threaded shaft.

Very easy to do but the single hammer and upward force works quick for me also.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

The "correct" type puller looks like a large "C" clamp with a wide base saddle that is a fork. The saddle bears against the bottom of the steering wheel while the forcing screw pushes it's saddle that bears on the threaded shaft.

Very easy to do but the single hammer and upward force works quick for me also.

Rob

i'll try the hammer method first since that's a tool i have readily available. :lol:

i'll try the hammer method first since that's a tool i have readily available. :lol:

Be sure to leave the retention nut a couple turns above the threaded shaft so you don't deform threads, or eat steering wheel. The nutritional value derived through nitrocellulous plastic is of very little use and it is proven to be hard on the teeth.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

i have never had any luck with the hammer method. I always have to use the puller.. I ruined a steering wheel tring to pry hit and yanking on it. If it dont come of fairly quick with the hammer, don't trash your steering wheel. just my experience...

Fred

15 gears...no waiting!

As has been discussed before here, you can always drill and tap the boss and use a conventional steering wheel puller.

I have always tried the "hammer and knee" method, using one or both knees to put pressure on the back side of the spokes while hitting first.

A good soaking of penetrating oil at the splines may help.

David

Be sure to leave the retention nut a couple turns above the threaded shaft so you don't deform threads, or eat steering wheel. The nutritional value derived through nitrocellulous plastic is of very little use and it is proven to be hard on the teeth.

Rob

the proper way is to use the three point methed..one hand at 2 o'clock..onehand at 10 o'clock..use belly at 6 o'clock...then bang nut with forhead..lol

Man,

Why didn't someone tell me about yaw's method first? I always held my mouth right, but it's also best to eat lots of baked beans for breakfast before ya do anything strenuous. It gives you more energy than these power drinks ever will........right ROB?

mike

As has been discussed before here, you can always drill and tap the boss and use a conventional steering wheel puller.

I have always tried the "hammer and knee" method, using one or both knees to put pressure on the back side of the spokes while hitting first.

A good soaking of penetrating oil at the splines may help.

i'll give this a try. sure would be nice to get it off of the column. if not i'll find a puller somewhere. it looks as though it would drop out the floorboard hole?

The easiest way is to;

(1) Measure up the column from the dash 4 (four) inches.

(2) At the 4 inch mark wrap the column with masking tape to create an even line. ;)

(3) Use Sawzall to cut through using the line made with tape as a guide. :D

(4) Wheel will now come out with little effort. :tease:

#1 on A-model registry

If I drink because of work, why can't I drink at work?

Some of the steering shafts are tappered and some are splinned. Take the nut loose enough to come up almost to the top of the spline. You can use either a puller with two arms or more. Try to get your puller under your wheel, not on the plastic finish of the steering wheel and tighten the center screw down until you can put a wrench on the center of the puller. Once you turn the center shaft of the puller a couple of times you should be able to tell if the wheel is loose. Most of the time when the wheel gets loose the puller can and will fall off.........men, now I feel like an elementary school teacher......but that's ok if we have helped someone that needed us.

Let us know how it went! :D

mike :mack1:

Some of the steering shafts are tappered and some are splinned. Take the nut loose enough to come up almost to the top of the spline. You can use either a puller with two arms or more. Try to get your puller under your wheel, not on the plastic finish of the steering wheel and tighten the center screw down until you can put a wrench on the center of the puller. Once you turn the center shaft of the puller a couple of times you should be able to tell if the wheel is loose. Most of the time when the wheel gets loose the puller can and will fall off.........men, now I feel like an elementary school teacher......but that's ok if we have helped someone that needed us.

Let us know how it went! :D

mike :mack1:

I like to hit things with hammers :lol:

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

me too!..with a b.f.h!

you guys are too helpful. i haven't located the correct puller yet. tried several but it definately has to be a specific shape.

we tried knee and hammer method but with no luck. so i took the cab off with the steering wheel still attached. :)

you guys are too helpful. i haven't located the correct puller yet. tried several but it definately has to be a specific shape.

we tried knee and hammer method but with no luck. so i took the cab off with the steering wheel still attached. :)

The puller I always use is not the right one but works very well. I will try to explain it to you if I can. The top of the puller is a standard steering wheel puller, The kind that has a forcing screw in the middle of a bar and the bar has a slot on either side of the screw. The bottom part of the puller is a bearing seperator, It has two parts that are bolted together around the column and are thin where the base of the steering wheel will be. Then I have two long bolts that connect the two parts of the puller, top to bottom. I usually have old bathroom towel around the contact of the wheel as not to scratch the wheel. I have removed the most stuck wheels with ease. I have found that all the b model wheels I have the splines are not tapered and fit tight all the way. Just my experience....

Fred

15 gears...no waiting!
Fred,

You da man......that was most magnificent!! you can be our next Guru if ROB doesn't show up and post to this topic to protect his given right to Guruship.

Come on Rob......where are you when we need you?

mike :D

Most Mack trucks that I have been around use a 1" diameter, 36 spline count shaft without taper. I do not have the correct puller and have always placed a flat steel disc in the center of the steering wheel with the retainer nut backed off till the end of threads. With upward knee pressure on the rim from the backside, a quick burp with the air hammer and the wheel is free of the splines no matter how tight it was initially. The rapid vibration combined with the force of impact does the trick.

Works for me.

I don't know anything about "guruship".

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Most Mack trucks that I have been around use a 1" diameter, 36 spline count shaft without taper. I do not have the correct puller and have always placed a flat steel disc in the center of the steering wheel with the retainer nut backed off till the end of threads. With upward knee pressure on the rim from the backside, a quick burp with the air hammer and the wheel is free of the splines no matter how tight it was initially. The rapid vibration combined with the force of impact does the trick.

Works for me.

I don't know anything about "guruship".

Rob

rob,

i'm just a newbie, but you do seem to have a response of some kind to almost all topics.

rob,

i'm just a newbie, but you do seem to have a response of some kind to almost all topics.

I guess good.....

Just don't get to pickin on me as I'm sensitive and my feelings get hurt easily.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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