How Large Of Dump Bed?

[Rob]

I've got 15' of clear, flat platform behind the cab on my RL797. How long of dump body would go on this for general usage? I've got to stop using Momma's A-40 so need to get another dump truck going for casual usage.

Thanks,

Rob

[Greg Rider]

I'm sure that a 15' bed would fit but a 16' might be better. You need to have enough overhang of the body for the latches and other hardware. Check on the A-40 what the overhang is and that should give you an idea. I would talk to body builders and see what the recommended hang is. You have the hinge, hardware bar, lights, and other crap to consider. Remember that a bed 16' feet in the air creates a lot of leverage that wants to flip the truck, so stay in the seat Rob "The Counterweight"

[HK Trucking]

Hi Rob.

What's the measurement from back of cab to back edge of rearmost tires?

[Rob]

Hi Rob.

What's the measurement from back of cab to back edge of rearmost tires?

Hi Herb, there is about 14'6" to the rearmost part of the rearmost tires measured vertically. There is only about six inches of frame "stickout" beyond the rear tires. From this I would need to remove another eight inches to clear the vertical exhaust that I want to keep.

I also want to keep the sides low enough to load with my skid steer loader. I've got 36" sides on the A-40 and that is about the limit.

Thanks,

Rob

[Rob]

I'm sure that a 15' bed would fit but a 16' might be better. You need to have enough overhang of the body for the latches and other hardware. Check on the A-40 what the overhang is and that should give you an idea. I would talk to body builders and see what the recommended hang is. You have the hinge, hardware bar, lights, and other crap to consider. Remember that a bed 16' feet in the air creates a lot of leverage that wants to flip the truck, so stay in the seat Rob "The Counterweight"

Hi Greg, the hinge at the rear of the A-40 is right at the end and is welded to the frame. The mud flaps are just a couple inches rearward of the tires and are fastend very near the end of the rear of the bed.

I've gravely concerned that if I were to jump out of the seat while the bed is in the air that I may upset the counterbalance action provided by my lard ass. Don't need a truck rotating on it's axis and assuming the "tits up" position unwillingly; Therefore, I don't plan to leave it when operating. I'm having a custom dual air spring seat fabricated to ensure survivability under duress conditions such as supporting my exponential weight gain which is still on an upward spiral.

Although Momma has been chewing on my ass to lose some weight, and get rid of some unused trucks, I'm progressing for a happy medium. The A-40 is hers so it is safe. The Cat powered RL is safe because of it's status. One of the B-61's, (single axle) is alright cause my daughter has laid claim to it, (SHIT, I say), The R795 has attained a slight safety margin cause I need a winch truck. The 58 B-61 is in uncharted territory and may need to be hidden to save. The R-190 IH is safe cause it is my crane and I've had it so long. That is why I MUST get a useful purpose established for this RL. I'm looking at switching to a new job requiring relocation and if something isn't needed, It will have to go. I don't want input from Momma on this one at all cause I know her, and what she'll want.

Rob

[HK Trucking]

Hi Herb, there is about 14'6" to the rearmost part of the rearmost tires measured vertically. There is only about six inches of frame "stickout" beyond the rear tires. From this I would need to remove another eight inches to clear the vertical exhaust that I want to keep.

I also want to keep the sides low enough to load with my skid steer loader. I've got 36" sides on the A-40 and that is about the limit.

Thanks,

Rob

I'd say go with a 15 ft box.

If you set it back from the cab 8" to clear the exhaust, that would give you 14" overhang past the rear tires.

Cut the hinge angle right into the end of the existing frame and you should be good, that should give enough overhang so the mudflaps don't get sucked into the tires when dumping.

The box I put on that CH about 8 years ago is exactly what you need, it was a 15 ft with 36" sides (without the extra sideboards I added)

I bought it from Rowe truck equipment in Indiana, real reasonable.

Later when I have time I'll dig up a photo and post it, along with Rowe truck's info.

.

[HK Trucking]

[ThaddeusW]

Herb that is one fine looking truck you have. I like how you mounted the mud flaps with chain. Are those 315/80's on the front?

Sorry to butt in Rob.

[HK Trucking]

Herb that is one fine looking truck you have. I like how you mounted the mud flaps with chain. Are those 315/80's on the front?

Sorry to butt in Rob.

Yes, Thad, those are 315/80's on the front, on 22.5 x 9" rims.

[HK Trucking]

Rob, here is the link to Rowe Truck:

http://www.rowetruck.com/index.php?option=...2&Itemid=47

I've set up 4 of their dump boxes on trucks so far, that one of my own (pictured), and 3 for other people.

They're dam reasonable on price, IIRC that one of mine was around $5200.00 complete with controls, hydraulics, PTO, cab shield, hinge angle, etc., and they shipped it up here right to my door for around $300.00 shipping charge.

That was in 2001, just before 9/11, so I'm sure they have increased since then, but all things being relative, I'm sure they're still reasonable.

.

[Rob]

Rob, here is the link to Rowe Truck:

http://www.rowetruck.com/index.php?option=...2&Itemid=47

I've set up 4 of their dump boxes on trucks so far, that one of my own (pictured), and 3 for other people.

They're dam reasonable on price, IIRC that one of mine was around $5200.00 complete with controls, hydraulics, PTO, cab shield, hinge angle, etc., and they shipped it up here right to my door for around $300.00 shipping charge.

That was in 2001, just before 9/11, so I'm sure they have increased since then, but all things being relative, I'm sure they're still reasonable.

I'm gonna call them in the morning. I've got a good hoist and tank/frame left over from a 13.5ft. Heil bed that I junked a few years ago that was in good shape. The truck already has the pump on the transmission and a 50 gallon hydraulic saddle tank that could be reused possibly. Don't really matter.

I would need to build a glove or sleeve of some type to bolt to the aluminum frame as I really don't want to cut into it if possible. This truck already has a large pintle hook on the back with air so it should be pretty easy to set up.

How does Reyco spring do off road? Never been around it much myself.

Thanks,

Rob

[HK Trucking]

How does Reyco spring do off road? Never been around it much myself.

Thanks,

Rob

Kinda like air ride, it won't follow the contour of the ground and you'll get wheelspin, but if you lock the power divider you'll be OK.

.

[NoClueJoe66]

Hey Rob when you get the truck set up & work for it I'll drive her for ya. Hell I wanna drive a real truck, instead of the 'ol underpowered chevy 8500

[Rob]

Kinda like air ride, it won't follow the contour of the ground and you'll get wheelspin, but if you lock the power divider you'll be OK.

.

I hear that. This damn thing as a cab & chassis won't back over a two inch difference in elevation without the power divider locked in. The concrete apron to the shop is about 1.5 inches higher than the gravel driveway and if I don't lock it in beforehand, or have a running start, I'm gonna have to lock it in to enter the building.

I've purchased a set of 3.70 ratio rears with a Detroit Locker in the rear rear so that should help. The transmission has a 11 to one 1st gear reduction in underdrive, and 8.6 to one in direct. I realize this could be a little better/deeper but I'm not really going to work the truck for hire so hopefully this will work satisfactorily. I know of a 12 speed that I could trade for, but it is the two lever style and I'd prefer to have a single shift lever as I have now. I wanted the 3.70 ratio to up the speed to a comfortable 72-75 MPH on open road as the transmission is direct in high on 20" rubber that will be changed to 22.5" tubeless radials.

Rob

[HK Trucking]

I hear that. This damn thing as a cab & chassis won't back over a two inch difference in elevation without the power divider locked in. The concrete apron to the shop is about 1.5 inches higher than the gravel driveway and if I don't lock it in beforehand, or have a running start, I'm gonna have to lock it in to enter the building.

I've purchased a set of 3.70 ratio rears with a Detroit Locker in the rear rear so that should help. The transmission has a 11 to one 1st gear reduction in underdrive, and 8.6 to one in direct. I realize this could be a little better/deeper but I'm not really going to work the truck for hire so hopefully this will work satisfactorily. I know of a 12 speed that I could trade for, but it is the two lever style and I'd prefer to have a single shift lever as I have now. I wanted the 3.70 ratio to up the speed to a comfortable 72-75 MPH on open road as the transmission is direct in high on 20" rubber that will be changed to 22.5" tubeless radials.

Rob

Over the years, I've found that on 10:00x20/11R22.5 rubber, if you multiply the lowest gear ratio in the transmission times the rear axle ratio, the product must be at least 60, or the truck will not have good startability fully loaded in an off road situation without abusing the clutch.

[Rob]

Over the years, I've found that on 10:00x20/11R22.5 rubber, if you multiply the lowest gear ratio in the transmission times the rear axle ratio, the product must be at least 60, or the truck will not have good startability fully loaded in an off road situation without abusing the clutch.

I would be way under that so wondering if I should find a different purpose for the truck or not?. How much weight will a 15ft. dump body carry assuming dirt? I know there are a lot of variables but I have no experience here.

I also thought about making this truck a camper with a winch on and off unit to go to shows, basically an RV.

Rob

[HK Trucking]

I would be way under that so wondering if I should find a different purpose for the truck or not?. How much weight will a 15ft. dump body carry assuming dirt? I know there are a lot of variables but I have no experience here.

I also thought about making this truck a camper with a winch on and off unit to go to shows, basically an RV.

Rob

My CH was licensed at 54,000, but I'm sure it was grossing well over 60,000 at times when it was hauling on a jobsite where weight laws were not a concern. It had a Eaton Fuller RTX14609B which I think has a low gear ratio of abot 14:1, and the rear axle ratio was 4.42:1

E7 - 350 motor.

[Bollweevil]

I'm gonna call them in the morning. I've got a good hoist and tank/frame left over from a 13.5ft. Heil bed that I junked a few years ago that was in good shape. The truck already has the pump on the transmission and a 50 gallon hydraulic saddle tank that could be reused possibly. Don't really matter.

I would need to build a glove or sleeve of some type to bolt to the aluminum frame as I really don't want to cut into it if possible. This truck already has a large pintle hook on the back with air so it should be pretty easy to set up.

How does Reyco spring do off road? Never been around it much myself.

Thanks,

Rob

A sub frame is a good Idea. I have seen several trucks set up like that. My RW613 had a Reyco 4 spring with Mack rears, and I went anywhere anyone else could go. You just do not let yourself be put into a compromising situation. Dumping is not a problem, spreading can be.

[Rob]

My CH was licensed at 54,000, but I'm sure it was grossing well over 60,000 at times when it was hauling on a jobsite where weight laws were not a concern. It had a Eaton Fuller RTX14609B which I think has a low gear ratio of abot 14:1, and the rear axle ratio was 4.42:1

E7 - 350 motor.

Damn, I would need about a 5.40 ratio to attain satisfactory startability and of course reliability off road. I know an auxillary would handle the torque but a 12XX series is very expensive to acquire and setup. Maybe I should re evaluate the two stick idea? This truck does not have the large driveline that my other V8 Maxidyne powered truck does either.

Really sounds like I should abandon this truck as a dump truck candidate due to cost to set it up correctly.

My first thought was another rollback but I really need a trailer as opposed to a carrier.

I wonder if it is satisfactory for a lowboy type tractor? I've got several winches, and pumps to provide power. Don't have a spare 5th wheel but they are readily available.

Rob

[other dog]

Rob, here is the link to Rowe Truck:

http://www.rowetruck.com/index.php?option=...2&Itemid=47

I've set up 4 of their dump boxes on trucks so far, that one of my own (pictured), and 3 for other people.

They're dam reasonable on price, IIRC that one of mine was around $5200.00 complete with controls, hydraulics, PTO, cab shield, hinge angle, etc., and they shipped it up here right to my door for around $300.00 shipping charge.

That was in 2001, just before 9/11, so I'm sure they have increased since then, but all things being relative, I'm sure they're still reasonable.

.

I just saw a USED 15 1/2 foot steel body in the truck trader, and they wanted $5900 for it, I think it was. The sides looked higher than 36'' though.

I have a 1950 Chevrolet single axle dump with an excellent rock body on it. I'll sell the body for only $1500 , but you're probably looking for something a little bigger-this body is about 3 1/4 inches long

I'll even sell the whole truck for $1500.05

Kinda hate to sell it, it's the only dump I got, but for that price I would let it go. No, I found another one. I have a '60 Chevrolet with the same body, so i'll keep the '50 and sell the '60 even cheaper.

[Rob]

I just saw a USED 15 1/2 foot steel body in the truck trader, and they wanted $5900 for it, I think it was. The sides looked higher than 36'' though.

I spoke with a gent at Rowe and the prices have not increased dramatically. I was really wanting to move on this project but I'm not so sure the truck is correct as mentioned earlier. I could slide a Fuller RTO12513 in the truck and that would probably be a better choice than the current Mack transmission due to the reduction in low gear. I've not checked so don't know what it actually would be.

Momma was brought into the loop Saturday coinciding with the new concrete driveway that was finished yesterday at her house. She has temporarily suspended "riding my ass" about getting rid of some trucks due to this, (my assumption).

Hope to re engage this project next week though.

Rob

[Mike]

Rob,

That truck would look great with a big hottub on the back of it. Forget all the measuring, cutting, welding and painting. You and Momma can use it together and maybe invite all the neighbors to have a splash party. Could even make a place for a BBQ grill. See we love you and can help save you all that money your going to throw away and also keep Momma happy with you even more. She may like it soooomuch that you'll increase your buying power with her.

mike

[b61fred]

Rob,

The old r-600 that I have ( I refer to it as the"possium" ) Has a 15ft box. As you already know your skid steer will dump into it ok, That truck and your skidsteer moved alot of dirt at my place last summer. The truck has a sick 285 hp mack with a two stick 6 speed, and 4.17 ratio rear. It goes down the road no problem, and off-road is ok. In my opinion your truck would work well as a dump. It has enough power, the rear axles with the detroit locker will go fine with the power divider locked in, and the trans should be low enough to get out of a tight spot when nessecery. The weight of the bed will help with your traction problems. Now I dont beileve I would spec out a truck this way for dumptruck work every day.. but I know that you are probally not going to become a career dump truck operator. My peterbilt was a dumptruck in Oregon untill just before I bought it, I was always in fear of using a alumminum frame truck for a dump but it survived well. If you need it the hinge assy is still bolted to the frame of the pete. I have used the rowe eqipment beds in the 10ft size and set up 3 other 10 ft beds, very good quality for the $$$$. When I get this dirt all hauled in for the house I am goin to sell the "possium" because the truck will be far too big for my needs after that.

fred

[other dog]

I just saw a USED 15 1/2 foot steel body in the truck trader, and they wanted $5900 for it, I think it was. The sides looked higher than 36'' though.

I have a 1950 Chevrolet single axle dump with an excellent rock body on it. I'll sell the body for only $1500 , but you're probably looking for something a little bigger-this body is about 3 1/4 inches long

I'll even sell the whole truck for $1500.05

Kinda hate to sell it, it's the only dump I got, but for that price I would let it go. No, I found another one. I have a '60 Chevrolet with the same body, so i'll keep the '50 and sell the '60 even cheaper.

these bodys will hold a half cup of dirt easily.

[other dog]

='Rob' post='35049' date='May 10 2009, 09:51 PM']...I also thought about making this truck a camper with a winch on and off unit to go to shows, basically an RV.

Rob

I might have what you need for that plan too-easy conversion. Here's a before and after of this nice Robmobile camper...and the super deluxe model, with twice pipes, satellite TV, CB, and a bigger door with a genuine cinder block step, and raccoon tail tied to the rear bumper.